Ok for those of us who did not listen to reason and decided to go cheap when it came time to look in the HID world for lighting or for those of us who are less fortunate and purchased a system for more than we should have and still ran into problems here is a little help. It may not help everyone since there are quite a few different systems made. Please use common sense when attempting this project. You should know your own limits as to how far you can work on your own car. If in doubt ask for help. Your results will vary depending on the system you purchase. Do not assume that these systems will not void part of your Mercedes warranty whether installed correctly or incorrectly.
I'm not that good at using the editor here and inserting pictures so if its a little hard to read or navigate just go to the web page I set up detailing the steps
click here
This is about how I decided to change my standard filament headlight into HID by purchasing what some call a 're-based HID system.' This is not to be
confused with the blue color dyed xenon filament bulbs that some of you are thinking of. This may not be as good as the factory system but it is cost effective alternative.
I'm sorry if this seems a little basic to some of you who have done this or have mechanical knowlege. To others it may still not be enough info.
From the research I have gathered I found out one could purchase these systems from ebay for as little as $80.00 and up to $380 for a H7 kit. There was a ton of claims from these sellers of which I found out many were just outright lies to sell their kits.
o Plug and play
o Will not set off codes
o Easy installation
o Warranty return no questions asked.
It is also possible that these sellers just never had their kits installed in a Mercedes. Fortunately I found out one way to make many of these systems work on our cars.
After the short amount of research I pick one of the cheap kits ($120) and found out what many of you already found out. These systems have flaws or won’t even work with the Mercedes electronics when installed as per instructions. Some of the cheap kits don't even have instructions!
If you are fortunate enough to pick one of the better systems, you will not have any issues after your install.
The typical low budget HID system
I started easy and decided to do the fog lights first. My reasoning was if there were problems I would still have my headlights.
Note on my 2005 E500 I have H11 bulbs not the H1 (typo?) as listed in some of the
replacement charts for automotive lights. This kit took all of
10—15 minutes installation time on each side to install. Your time will vary depending on how anal
you are about routing your leads. The headlights will take a little more time.
First raise the car to gain access to the splash shield behind the front bumper. Remove the 8 – 8mm headed bolts and pull off the front splash shield.
Note I have both the ballast for the headlight and the foglight installed already.
You will find plenty of room to gain access to the fog light bulbs and room to install the ballast for both the headlights and fog lights. The fog light bulbs are easy to remove just turn counter clockwise about 1/8 of a turn and pull. Check to see if you have the correct bulb in your kit.
This is the back of the fog light with the bulb removed.
Passenger foglight ballast installed on radiator support.
Area under the driver's headlight
Same side with ballast installed for both the headlight and foglight.
I found that on the 211 there was a nice spot on the radiator core support to mount the ballast and still be close enough for the leads to reach the headlight housings. I used the existing bolt that was there. You want to keep these away from the engine compartment as…
o It will keep the clutter down in the
engine compartment.
o It will make it easier for the tech to
work on your car.
o It will hope fully be so out of the
way that the tech will never see it.
Meaning no warranty issues.
o It will keep the Brakes and SRS
system away from electromagnetic
interference that some of these cheap
ballast give off.
1. Plug the Hid bulbs into the headlight housings.
2. Plug the HID bulb leads into the Ballast.
3. Connect the OEM headlight plug to the Ballast power lead.
Note the Brown wire is the Ground wire (negative lead) from you head light lead. this is where the cheap systems meet the really cheap systems as some of the realy cheap systems have just a bare terminal for you to insert into your headlight plug. Use some dielectric grease here to keep water out.
Well at this point its time to test your system out. Make sure everything is out of the way
and start the car. Turn on you fog lights. If everything is working correctly and you chose a
system with good ballast your head lights will not flicker and there will not be any codes
on the dash. Tie all the loose wires out of the way and button everything up.
Unfortunately for me my lights flickered but it was not too bad so I went ahead and did the
head lights too.
When I did my headlights that's when my lights flickered a lot.
First thing is do not use the Daytime running
lights either the one on the headlight control
or in the main control on the dash. If you still
have this problem or have a flicker that
happens on occasion that just drives you
crazy try this next step.
One of three reasons I found why the headlights flickered was due to the power feeding the HID system actually is not a consistent
or 'clean' 12 volts and the voltage varies up and down. We do not see the headlights dim and brighten on traditional system
because the filament glows, stays lit and is slow to react. On the other hand the HID system is very quick to sense the voltage drops and
we see this as a flicker.
The second problem is with the headlight warning system. I installed a capacitor in attempt to fix this problem and it seems to work.
When you first start up the lights the capacitor will power up acting like a load (not sensing what it considers as a burnt out bulb)
and not set off a code. Because the headlight warning system sees the load it will continue to power the lights instead if flickering.
Note your results will vary but for the 9 additional dollars spent it is better than throwing the HID system in the trash.
The last reason other than bad connection is a bad ballast or bulb. If you notice one headlight flicker but not the other. Swap the
ballast and then the bulb. If the flicker follows the bulb or the ballast you found your problem. Ask if you can return your ballast or
bulb for warranty. And good luck with that...
The Capacitor works kind of like a additional battery and gets powered up when you start the system, excess voltage is stored in the
capacitor and when the voltage drops it will discharge and fill in the gap when the voltage is low. I found a Capacitor from Radio
Shack to work out well for $4.50 each. I got the 2200 uf rated at 35 volts part number 272-1020. I used one for each Ballast or head
light.
To keep things simple I used heat shrink and wire taps to install these onto the wires
leading to the Ballast.
On this capacitor the Ground wire is the one where the arrow is pointing to. Warning:
Do not install the Capacitor backwards as it may get hot and it is possible for them to explode. After running the lights for a while check the capacitors they should not be hot. If they are, please re-check your wiring, routing, and connections.
Here is a diagram I was sent from one of the members 'No_Clue' (thanks Richard) since my Photoshop is currently not working.
Install the capacitor in between the factory
headlight plug and HID Ballast.
The capacitor installed
on the wires leading to
the Ballast
When aiming your fog lights pull up twenty to thirty feet from
a wall on level ground and adjust you lights.
DO NOT ALLOW YOUR LIGHTS TO SHINE HIGHER THAN
THE HEIGHT OF YOUR BULBS!!!
Otherwise you will be blinding everyone!
Use a long Phillips screwdriver here to adjust your fog lights
Here is the rest of the install for the headlights for those of you who do not have it and would like to see some of the benefits of HID
After removing the back cover for the headlight case ...
Remove the headlight bulbs turn counter clockwise when looking at the back of the connector about a 1/8 turn and pull
It should look like this. Use a small blade screw driver to remove the connector.
Save the metal retaining clip and do not allow it to fall into the engine compartment!
Bulb on the left is the HID in the plastic container. Leave it in there as long as
possible to keep any oils (like the natural oils on your hands) off of it.
Take note to see how the retaining clip was clocked or phased on the old bulb.
Remove the old retaining clip and install on your new bulb.
This will be a pain to put on and you will most likely need to cut off the dust plug
(big round plug on some of the wires these kits have) to install. Note you should
not need to cut or damage any part of the wires or ends. Again be careful not to
touch the bulb. If you think the bulb touch anything you can dip the bulb in some
rubbing alcohol.
On the drivers side there is a small screw that holds the coolant reservoir in. Be
careful removing it because it will disappear if you let it. Make sure the coolant is
cool before doing this step. Pull up and move the tank to one side so you have
room to work on the driver's headlight.
If you require the capacitors install them now on the power leads to the Ballast.
Plug in the wires.
Now look at the inside of your engine compartment the inside of your headlight will look
like this in time of you let dirt and dust in there. I recommend notching a slot into the back
cover or drilling a hole to allow the wires to pass thru the headlight
housing. Reinstall the cover. This will keep dust and moisture out of the headlight
assembly. Reinstall the other components.
Adjust the Headlights if necessary on level ground. Noting not to aim them higher
than the headlight itself.
If you have problems and all the connections are rechecked especially if the
problem is just with one light you may have a problem with the product itself. Check
with seller's troubleshooting list as you may have a problem with a bulb or Ballast.
Please use this information at your own risk and please use common sense when working on your own car. I do not teach or publish books and this was just to help out a few friends who were to far away for me too work on their cars.
If you have questions or have some input you can always PM or email me at
healthservices@cox.net
I can also update any changes to the install on this
webpage.
Flame suit on...