eunosracr

You're going to love it. Im hooked.

slkfans

Guys,

Sorry for taking that long, the sprint booster has been shipped out and the tracking details provided.

Usually I placed the order for the sprint booster on a back to back basis. Many a times, the lead time is painful and I must say I am trying my best to expedite the shipment since the main bulk of the purchase is from the dealer.

Let me know how it goes when you receive them.

Cheers !

ctC230K

omg you're back! where the hell have u been man? everyone's asking about u haha they all want sprint boosters!

c230 o5

i want a sprint booster for my manual c230k HOW MUCH?

slkfans

How have you been doing ? It has been quite a while, very busy with work..I am trying my best to speed up things so that everyone will get their SB on time...

slkfans

manual sb don't come very handy, usually on a special order basis. What I suggest is to consolidate the numbers for manual and it will be best to place a bulk order to avoid any slips....

PhilC230

Got my booster....thanks SLK....thought I was gonna be out the money for a while there.....but I got it....

Did the install earlier.....couldn't find this thread so went solo....wrong move but I got it in....

Let me ask anyone who has done the install.....

How does the top of the gas pedal connect? I did not take down the rubber piece on top. My gas pedal assembly slid right out but getting it back was a *****...now I am not sure if that little bolt is the only thing holding on my gas pedal or I actually got the thing in the correct place. It felt like it was pretty stuck up there so I said to myself this thing aint going anywhere and bolted it down....

Am I wrong?

RES

There is just a square shape on top of the gas padel and a slot up in the foot well. The square goes into the notch and make sure the wires don't wonder over to the steering. Use zip ties for the extra. Then just install the one nut and your good!

Benzo0573

is there an aggressive model for the autos? On slkfans site i only see 1 available for the autos

Hugedrive

I want one too, how much?

The Hammer

For those of you who have had this installed for sometime a couple of questions:

1) Did the ecu "learn" the sprint booster? For example, I have heard of similar devices using a resistor for better throttle response but after a few weeks or a couple of months the ecu "learns" the trick and reduces it's effectiveness, has this happened to anyone here?

2) MPG's-have you noticed any difference, positive or negative, other than getting into the pedal more?

3) Long term effects on drivetrain-any negative effects? Any techies/mechanics/electrical individuals out there theorize this will have a negative effect on the drivetrain down the road? Anyone who has installed had any diagnostics warnings go off?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

C230 Sport Coup

Improving throttle response, means you will jump off the line quicker, resulting in lower mileage with or without SB, same as if you push the pedal down hard each time you take off. If you want good mileage, you gotta have a light foot. Something I deal with every day with ASP Pulley and header, no SB.
I can get good mileage but it takes a VERY light foot.

Anyone running ASP and Sprint Booster?
I'm still curious about this device, but already it's very difficult to do things, like drive up onto a rack etc. a small jab to the pedal would have me flying through a wall, ha. But I do have that slight delay off the mark.

Negative effects on drivetrain?
You're not adding hp or torque, just response, so if you take off jack rabbit starts all the time, with or without SB, it's the same thing.
If you drive full on, all the time, you'll likely need more work as time goes on.
Like if you were racing or something. If you drive normal, shouldn't be any different. I'm pushing more HP to the drivetrain, and so far so good.
I keep up on maint. and had tghe tranny fluid replaced despite it being "lifetime" ha. Need to do the diff oil soon.
But I'm not driving WOT all the time. gas costs too damn much, as fun as it is, so the only time I'm really stressing any components a little more than stock in the car is during WOT.

netboy

i just dont feel safe putting someting under the gas padel, what if it malfuction?

tommy

You die, of course. **** happens.

The Hammer

So the consensus is the mod is well worth the $300 or so it costs?

Midnight Koop

expanding on that thought... for those of you who've done it, was the value for the price enough to do it all over again if you had the option to?

gregr09

Yes. Even my mom was hooked when she drove my c240. She wants it for her e-class. Just trying to find it again.

tommy

Yes, certainly I'd do it again. I autocrossed my car on Saturday, and it got off the line much quicker than what I remember the last time I autoxed it. Very helpful.

ctC230K

ROFL
yes

RES

I have SB with header and pullies and fuel control and all is well, yes I would add this to any Mercedes. If you want it to have a little less response just put it C mode and it will start in second and no problem getting it on the rack or stop and go driving. The ECU does learn a little and makes it easier to drive. If you want throttle response again do throttle reset in post on here and it will jump off the line again. Fuel economy is not effected if you stay out of it, which is hard to do because it's so dang fun. But when I am on the freeway it has no effect.

AMGSC

I'm selling mine for $240 if anyone wants it. It's just too torqy. In fact, my drive belt snapped off and my stock tensioner pulley practically melted and then siezed up while I was on the freeway because of the SB according to my MB Tech.

C230 Sport Coup

It's more likely it happened in this order.

1. Tensioner pulley seized
2. Belt ground against pulley "practically melted"
3. Melted belt
4. Belt snapped.

It's unlikely a device that increase throttle was responsible for a defective
tensioner. 2 completely unrelated things.
Amazingly mechanics who get paid, and do this for a living, come up with such dumass statements.

That being said, yes, on a C55 it could very well be uncomfortable with it on,
since it will leap every time you touch the pedal.
Those with smaller engines likely benefit best.

I might be tempted, but still feel that more than likely whatever is contained inside the sprint booster, shouldn't cost more than $10.
I'll have my DVD owners manual by the end of the week.
With any luck, they'll be some diagnostic info on the drive by wire system
that could give insight into how the SB works.
I'd be surprised if it's anything more than a resistor.

C230 Sport Coup

The accelerator pedal sensor is supplied by the engine
control unit with 5 V. The information regarding the
accelerator pedal position is passed on to the engine control
unit by means of two voltages (pin 4: approx. 0 to 2.25 V and
pin 5: approx. 0 to 4.5V).

Midnight Koop

well... you're right... thats one expensive resistor...

i wonder if pin 4 governs the rpm at idle (b/c it has a more narrow voltage range) and if pin 5 controls the rpm when moving (b/c of its more broad voltage range). in that case, the sprint booster probably just changes the voltage read by pin 4 during idle? (just a guess)... actually i have no idea what im talking about so don't listen to me

C230 Sport Coup

But wait, there's more.
Here's one on an error code that can happen if the 2 voltages aren't within
close tolerance to each other.
Seems the point of the 2 voltages is that they act as a redundant
circuit, but with one exactly 2X the other.
If one isn't within tolerance to the other, the ECU see's a failure, clicks on the CEL, and puts the car in limp home mode, known here as emergency mode.

The pedal isn't a potentiometer, though it appears that in fact it acts in the same fashion, with 5 v coming from the ECU, and the range is
.1-2.4 and .2-4.8 V on the 2 circuits. The point of using the hall effect device is likely reliability since a pot has moving parts, and can get dirty.
Also, there'd be no noise either.

Here's some info on wikipedia about the Hall Effect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect.

It's likely to be more than a resistor, but as you can see in the circuit for the
accelerator it has transistors, and is a very simple circuit.

What you would need to accomplish the SB effect is something that will
let the .1 and .2 signals through and keep them within the 8% tolerance of each other, but as soon as throttle is applied, a higher than normal signal is sent to the ECU, but cannot exceed, 2.4 and 4.8 V under any circumstances.

Anyone know what type of components would be needed to accomplish that?
The pdf here show exactly which pins to check to view the voltages.
The initial voltage to the ecu would be higher, but how high?
Thats what I'd like to know. Upon applying the slightest amount of throttle, what is the voltage?

Very curious, but likely a simple circuit as well.
I know there's some engineers out there....

Anyone want to loan me there SB for some testing?