Supercharger Dyno Results are in!!

[gregc]

Finally got to the dyno to test the Powerdyne setup. I am happy, but not with the temp today. The temp was 91 Degrees in the dyno lab! The stock and HPS eaton blower dyno runs were at 65 Degrees!! That makes a BIG difference in the results, as I bet I would have gotten several more horses on a cooler day. Maybe even touched the magic 400HP? Compare the Roots to the Powerdyne: I must say I am surprised at how well the Powerdyne Cetrif blower performed. Compared to a typical cetif, like a Vortech, it has a great trq curve. Powerdyne does claim better curves than Vortech, even though Powerdynes can not push near as much air/boost. The HPS system was at 4.5-5psi (SOUNDED LIKE A TRAIN), full timing The Powerdyne was at 5-6.5psi (SILENT), 10.5 degrees timing retard With the Powerdyne setup, I went with a custom Split Second conditioning unit to tune both the fuel(using the MAF meter) and reduce timing. I am reducing timing 10.5 degrees at redline. I do not trust any car runing full timing on a 11:1 compression CLK. Yes, I could get another 30-50HP with full timing, but its not worth it. The air-to-fuel ratio looks really good. I will probably richen a little at the top. In the end, I am happy with my design move to the Powerdyne. This head unit needs a little more bang for a CLK55, but it would be perfect for a 430CLK. I thought about moving to a Vortech/Procharger, but I do not want to tap the oil pan or listen to a screaming blower. I have a vert. One last note; look at how the Eaton dies at the top end. This says the blower is out of gas for the clk55. That is a big reason HPS went to the MP112 in the Gen2 system. Someone needs to take my setup and package it for sale. It's a great alternative for people that want a system which can be removed fast. The parts are cheap too! One more thing, I do have a Boost-a-pump and an upgraded fuel pump for safty. The stock pump is no good for this or the roots blower setup. For you people not into math. This HP and Trq is at the rear-wheels. Mercedes and all car dealer quote HP/Trq at the engine Flywheel. Add about 25% to these numbers, meaning about 475HP Flywheel HP!!! It is not a SL55, but it is not a 100K car.

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[E55Cent]

Nice numbers Greg, I have been waiting for this info for a while. We have the same numbers but only reversed, I have 360whp and 380wtq. I wonder how the cars would do against each other. When ever I stop being lazy I will smooth out the HPS intake and exhaust piping and add the Aquamist. I'm hoping this will make my car run smoother, safer and even gain 20whp. If I keep my car I will add some headers to it. I spoke to Josh R of House of Power and he said he is coming out with some very nice and affordable headers for the V8's. I'm guessing 25 to 30whp gain from this mod. Maybe port/polish the heads 20whp?

Are you using the mister on this kit? Did you have a boost guage when you were dynoing your car or are you guessing on the boost? I know Vortech makes a VSQ blower that has cross cut gear instead of straight. I had one for my BMW M3, the VSQ is 60% quiter than the normal VS1. Just in case you want more boost. By the way the ProCharger is a self lubricated blower (no oil tapping) but not as quite as the Vortech.
Keep up the good work. I wish I had a second car so I could do more probjects on my car.
Mario

[wfoclk55]

Nice write up. Nice work on the blower. It's been interresting reading and following along.

[Richard023]

Great work Greg!!! The TQ curve is most impressive, which Powerdyne model unit are you using; BD-11A? Post some pictures of the hardware when you get a chance.

[wnycec]

Originally Posted by E55Cent

Nice numbers Greg, I have been waiting for this info for a while. We have the same numbers but only reversed, I have 360whp and 380wtq. I wonder how the cars would do against each other. When ever I stop being lazy I will smooth out the HPS intake and exhaust piping and add the Aquamist. I'm hoping this will make my car run smoother, safer and even gain 20whp. If I keep my car I will add some headers to it. I spoke to Josh R of House of Power and he said he is coming out with some very nice and affordable headers for the V8's. I'm guessing 25 to 30whp gain from this mod. Maybe port/polish the heads 20whp?

Are you using the mister on this kit? Did you have a boost guage when you were dynoing your car or are you guessing on the boost? I know Vortech makes a VSQ blower that has cross cut gear instead of straight. I had one for my BMW M3, the VSQ is 60% quiter than the normal VS1. Just in case you want more boost. By the way the ProCharger is a self lubricated blower (no oil tapping) but not as quite as the Vortech.
Keep up the good work. I wish I had a second car so I could do more probjects on my car.
Mario

Where did u get ur headlights and do they sell them for a 2000 - 208?

[E55Cent]

Originally Posted by wnycec

Where did u get ur headlights and do they sell them for a 2000 - 208?

As of right now there is no one making these lights for the 208. I know there are a handful of guys that have made there own with projectors and the clear lenses from Europe. On the 208 forum their is a group trying to get Depo to start making them but Depo wants 35k to start the project.
If I were you I would add HID if you don't already have it and get the clear lenses from Europe.
good luck
Mario

[whitepony]

Where would i find the clear lenses for my lights

[drmiller100]

So the HPS system gave 29 horsepower?

Can't I get 29 horsepower with an exhaust, intake, and gutting the cats?

thanks,
doug

[gregc]

Yes you could, but you would not ever get close to the Trq numbers.

I see people getting headers and paying a ton. The flow issues with the clk55 are the cats. Eventhough it is quiet, the muff is pretty good at flow.

[NitrogenBalance]

So was your HPS a gen 1 as you mentioned the M90 blower??? I think your gain in hp was 298 to 327 correct???

I never second guess torque as its 50% of the battle so that was good on the HPS but the small increase in HP is a bummer. I just wonder why mario had better results on his N/A 55 engine with the Gen 1 system. I mean, you guys should have pulled the same numbers +/- a few hp for variables...but thats a big difference.

However, congrats on the custom set-up. Did you carbon copy some of the brackets, tubing, and positioning from the HPS system. What I mean is, did you base it on the gen 1 and simply replace what sucks with whats good??

Lastly, why look for someone to build and sell these?? Granted you may have a busy career, but I would love to be able to have the know-how and ability to fabricate something like that.

Get that thing dynoed outside of an oven next time!!

[E55Cent]

Originally Posted by NitrogenBalance

So was your HPS a gen 1 as you mentioned the M90 blower??? I think your gain in hp was 298 to 327 correct???

I never second guess torque as its 50% of the battle so that was good on the HPS but the small increase in HP is a bummer. I just wonder why mario had better results on his N/A 55 engine with the Gen 1 system. I mean, you guys should have pulled the same numbers +/- a few hp for variables...but thats a big difference.

However, congrats on the custom set-up. Did you carbon copy some of the brackets, tubing, and positioning from the HPS system. What I mean is, did you base it on the gen 1 and simply replace what sucks with whats good??

Lastly, why look for someone to build and sell these?? Granted you may have a busy career, but I would love to be able to have the know-how and ability to fabricate something like that.

Get that thing dynoed outside of an oven next time!!

My first dyno was right around 337whp, but I tweeked the pulley and added more fuel and came up with 366whp. You should have better results with your C43 motor because the MP90 blower will not make over 5lbs of boost on a 5.5l motor but it should be no problem for you to make 6psi+ on a 4.3l motor. The Gen 1 HPS kit was made more for the 4.3 motor. The MP90 is too small and is maxed out for 5.5l. Overall I'm happy because where else was I going to get 90hp for $4000. I could add headers and Aquamist which should put my car right at 400whp. I would guess with the right pulley and proper air/fuel the 4.3 motor should see 320whp maybe more.

[gregc]

"Thanks mario on the reply for the stock HPS."

"Did you carbon copy some of the brackets, tubing, and positioning from the HPS system. "

Everything is different except I used the HPS value cover plate bracket. I custom made the supercharger bracket and plate.

The one other HPS part is a 90 degree tube that mounts to the back of the intake. I have seen a couple of other people make this custom, as it is not unique.

In summary, all the parts are off-the-shelf except 2 parts. These would need to be made. So that one would not get into trouble with HPS, I have another option for a engine mount bracket.

I can say that the Powerdyne is quiet and gives very good response. It takes a lot less HP to run the unit too, as I get 20.5 MPG in town. Of course, I can get 5MPG when I am on the gas.

I think this should be a default option for Mercedes cars, becasue it fits the mature of the car. I love mario's setup, as his car is detailed to make a little sound!

If anyone wants to get into the business I will fund the effort. No time to run a shop.

"Get that thing dynoed outside of an oven next time"

In Texas we are in the upper 80's already! I will try to get back to the dyno on morning while in the low 80"s. I tuned some more and feel confident I am over 400 Rear Wheel HP now!!! I am at about 9 degree timing retard and 11.6:1 A/F.

Mario: on a side note, water methonol injection helps cool, but you need more boost or more timing to get additional HP. I think you are at full timing now? As such, water injection will only help you starve off detonation, which it a great thing on these expensive engines.

man, I wish mercedes cars were like BMW. I can find all kinds of cool after market parts for BMW. These third party mercedes houses are highjacks.

we need mor motor head in the mercedes world like mario and myself!

[drmiller100]

>we need mor motor head in the mercedes world like mario and myself!

I'm working on it. So if someone were to do a nitrous system, would they do a dry system, or a wet system?

In other words, is it easy to hack into the ECU and crank up the fuel rates 30 percent?

Does the supercharger fuel solution just crank up the fuel pressure using a variable rate regulator? Could I just crank the fuel pressure when I squirted nitrous?

It sounds like the fuel injectors have plenty of capacity for another 150 horsepower. And I'd rather do a dry system then wet, IF I can guarantee I can get fuel.

How is the detonation sensor? Will it shut down the engine if something goes haywire?

Has anyone ever tried REALLY crummy fuel in a 55 engine?

[whitepony]

Originally Posted by drmiller100

I'm working on it. So if someone were to do a nitrous system, would they do a dry system, or a wet system?

In other words, is it easy to hack into the ECU and crank up the fuel rates 30 percent?

Does the supercharger fuel solution just crank up the fuel pressure using a variable rate regulator? Could I just crank the fuel pressure when I squirted nitrous?

It sounds like the fuel injectors have plenty of capacity for another 150 horsepower. And I'd rather do a dry system then wet, IF I can guarantee I can get fuel.

How is the detonation sensor? Will it shut down the engine if something goes haywire?

Has anyone ever tried REALLY crummy fuel in a 55 engine?

No, friends don't let friends run NO2

Buy a Chip

Refer to the first answer

again say no to NO2!

Don't know

Crummy fuel in a AMG = stupid owner = broken car

[gregc]

To start with, the fuel pump needs to be upgraded in any case. Look at the posts and you will find my reply.

Dry system: What I found is that even with a mech FMU, the increase in fule pressure is too much for the pump to push through. As such, with any dry system you should have a boost-a-pump installed. This help push fuel as the FMU us pinching to raise Fuel Pressure( increase fule pressure means more fuel). In addition you should go with a MAF tuning box to fine tune the A/F while on the dyno. I used the Spilt Second unit that includes timing AND MAF signal modification.

Wet System: With a wet system, you still need a bigger pump, but you do not need a boost-a-pump. In this case you do not need the FMU. You still need the MAF signal tuner to fine tune A/F while on the dyno.

I would go with a wet unit, becasue the computer contolled unit T's-off of the fule line. I have seen people even fine tune with the computer version so as not to need the MAF signal modifier. So said, all you need is a new fuel pump and the wet computer system. A 75HP shot would be a great set-up and easy to install. You may be able to get away without playing with timing. If you go to 100 or 150HP shot I would get the Split second Timing unit.

In all cases do go to the muffler shop and have a O2 bong welded on so that you can get A/F readining while on the dyno. Tuning is pretty easy on the dyno, just target 11:1.

Installed well, a wet system is very efficient.

[gregc]

I found the Detonation sensors on the clk55 is pretty sensitive. That is why the HPS probably did not use. Timing probably being reduced. However, not trust worthy and I did not take a chance.