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CLK55 AMG, CLK63 AMG (W208, W209) Discuss the past, present and future CLK55 AMG and the CLK63 AMG.

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Old 06-08-2007, 12:57 AM   #1
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How to dyno a 2002 CLK55

I am sure that there is something that has to be done to get these cars to run on a dyno. Could someone please let me know what has to be done. I would rather not look like a fool when my car won't run right. Thanks To remove this ad, register today or login if you already are registered!

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Old 06-08-2007, 08:33 AM   #2
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Check with Blackbenzz....not sure if he got his Kleemann dynoed w/o downshifting.
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Old 06-08-2007, 10:54 AM   #3
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I have posted this issue already as well. There were no solutions provided. When I dynoed my car it down-shifted under load- even when manually shifting the car through the gears. The shop will have to manually shift smoothly to try and get a run as high as possible 4th before it shifts to third.

Here is my post and link to the thread:
2001 CLK55 AMG
I went second. I have a 2001 CLK55 AMG with a SpeedTunningUSA chip upgrade. It is configured for 93-94 octane. Let me just start by saying that the shop had a much harder time configuring my car to run correctly on the dyno since it is an automatic and the ESP can't be fully shut-off.

Even after I turned off the ESP using the switch inside the car, it still cut in and wouldn't let the car perform correctly on this load bearing dyno (hooked directly to rear wheel hubs). So we pulled fuse 24 and 37 (for ESP) in the engine bay on the drivers side- which triggered the ESP, BAS and ABS warnings. However, this allowed the car to rev up smoother to redline of 6,400. Please note that according to the user manual on page 216, that with these three malfunction indicators "only partial engine output will be available." I am not sure this was the case for me but it is possible I experienced some power loss- I wouldn't think so but I didn't see the timing map either.

Regardless, we went forward with the dyno runs. We manually shifted using 3rd and 4th gear to reach the highest dyno numbers. The best pull came on run 3 which was 303 Hp SAE to the wheels at around 5,2000 RPM. The shop indicated that this would be about 364.3 to the crank (using a calculation of 20% for drive train loss). My other runs varied from about 290 to the 303 to the wheels but admittedly it was hard for them to get consistent linear graphs because of the downshifting of the car under load. They were not happy with this issue, so they didn't charge me.

Good luck and please post what type of dyno, the conditions, and if you were able to pull runs without downshifting.
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Old 06-08-2007, 10:59 AM   #4
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...........just unplug the ESP module behind the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. Done this many times.

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Old 06-08-2007, 11:08 AM   #5
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Hey Ted,

Thanks for the rotors- they look great. I am shipping the shocks back this weekend.

As to unplugging the ESP module, is that different (I assume it is) than removing fuses 24 and 37 (for ESP) in the engine bay fuse box on the drivers side. This triggered the ESP, BAS and ABS warnings. Was that triggered for you as well when you removed the ESP Module?

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2001 CLK 55 AMG
19" Moven C16 Rims
Eagle F1 DS-D3 Tires (235/35ZR19 and 265/30/ZR19)
H&R Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks
Rear K-Mac kit
Slotted/Cross Drilled Front Rotors
StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid
Green Filters
SpeedTuningUSA ECU Upgrade (6500 redline & removed speed limitation of 155 mph)
Auto Meter Digital Pro Shift System (Level 2)
Dynoed Power: (303/Wheels & 364/Crank)

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Old 06-08-2007, 11:17 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by ashutt View Post
Hey Ted,

Thanks for the rotors- they look great. I am shipping the shocks back this weekend.

As to unplugging the ESP module, is that different (I assume it is) than removing fuses 24 and 37 (for ESP) in the engine bay fuse box on the drivers side. This triggered the ESP, BAS and ABS warnings. Was that triggered for you as well when you removed the ESP Module?

Allan

.............I am glad you are happy with the brakes. Unplugging the ESp fuses(assuming you have the right ones) will accomplish the same thing. The BAS/ESP etc lights will come on in both instances.

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Old 06-08-2007, 05:13 PM   #7
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.............I am glad you are happy with the brakes. Unplugging the ESp fuses(assuming you have the right ones) will accomplish the same thing. The BAS/ESP etc lights will come on in both instances.

Ted
Or just unplug the ABS harness off the ABS unit(drivers side front). It will do the same thing.
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Old 06-09-2007, 07:57 AM   #8
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Or just unplug the ABS harness off the ABS unit(drivers side front). It will do the same thing.

............see above.

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Old 06-11-2007, 04:05 PM   #9
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Check with Blackbenzz....not sure if he got his Kleemann dynoed w/o downshifting.
Nope, never went back to try again.

How does unplugging the ESP/ABS prevent downshifting?
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Old 06-11-2007, 05:49 PM   #10
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My experiance is that it doesn't affect downshifting at all. What it did for me was minimize the ABS and ESP from freaking out. On the DynoPack the car is raised and the car didn't like it at all. Once I pulled the fuses it at least allowed the car perform better without the ABS and ESP kicking in.

The trade off is that once the ABS, BAS and ESP warnings are triggered because of pulling the fuses, there could be an ECU power reduction as a result. Please note that according to the User Manual on page 216, that with these three malfunction indicators "only partial engine output will be available." This makes me wonder if our cars are even obtaining full power output on a Dyno as a result of this problem?
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2001 CLK 55 AMG
19" Moven C16 Rims
Eagle F1 DS-D3 Tires (235/35ZR19 and 265/30/ZR19)
H&R Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks
Rear K-Mac kit
Slotted/Cross Drilled Front Rotors
StopTech Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE Type 200 Brake Fluid
Green Filters
SpeedTuningUSA ECU Upgrade (6500 redline & removed speed limitation of 155 mph)
Auto Meter Digital Pro Shift System (Level 2)
Dynoed Power: (303/Wheels & 364/Crank)


Last edited by ashutt; 06-11-2007 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 06-11-2007, 06:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashutt View Post
My experiance is that it doesn't affect downshifting at all. What it did for me was minimize the ABS and ESP from freaking out. On the DynoPack the car is raised and the car didn't like it at all. Once I pulled the fuses it at least allowed the car perform better without the ABS and ESP kicking in.

The trade off is that once the ABS, BAS and ESP warnings are triggered because of pulling the fuses, there could be an ECU power reduction as a result. Please note that according to the User Manual on page 216, that with these three malfunction indicators "only partial engine output will be available." This makes me wonder if our cars are even obtaining full power output on a Dyno as a result of this problem?

............some clarification. after you pull the fuses or disconnect the ESP harness, you apply very slow throtle pressure with transmission on "D." This will allow the car to shift by itself. Count the shifts and when the car enter into 4th gear, then and only then do you mash it. This is the same way you dyno the newer cars with dyno mode via instrument cluster manipulation. Car will down shift if you don't feather the throtle. So not different from our cars

........I don't have a direct answer for partial engine ouput question. My W210 E55K has been dynoed more than 30 times and dyno results were range of 450RWHP and 500 rear wheel torque. While it may please me to think that those results were on partial engine ouput, I doubt it.

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