brake ducting

Peterclk55 · 04-22-2008, 05:29 PM

Has anyone significantly increased their brakes by ducting air to them? My brakes are great on the road but on track days I get brake fade very swiftly.

I was thinking about removing the fog lamps and ducting air from that area to the brakes.

Ideas welcomed.

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rsr911 · 04-22-2008, 05:56 PM

Doing the fog light removal is a good idea. The problem with the W209 is, it is so heavy. Almost 450lbs heavier then my W208.

The more extreme idea is put the car on a diet. If you are going to use the car for mostly track event and don't mind gutting it. GUT it!!

Pull the very heavy seats out and put in race seats etc. etc. etc.

Good luck! Tough choices I know. I thought of making a W209 into a track car but too much money and too much weigth.

blackbenzz · 04-23-2008, 10:30 AM

I've been wanting to get some brake ducting made for mine for a longgg time. I should stop being lazy and just do it

Anyone know the weight of the stock seats?

rsr911 · 04-23-2008, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackbenzz

Anyone know the weight of the stock seats?

HEAVY!!!

sick430 · 04-23-2008, 12:00 PM

heavy times like 10! i know the SL seats are about 200 each

2skiddy · 04-23-2008, 01:45 PM

Yes ducting is a great idea. It takes time to do and many people shy away as it involves a bit of thought and lying on your back. I have ducted the front brakes on mine and they seem fine, although the ambient was fairly cold on the 3 track days I have done. These cars are great on track by the way, if only people knew!!!!!!!!

Peterclk55 · 04-23-2008, 04:00 PM

Hey 2skiddy - I emailed you about this - it's you that planted the idea in my mind!

Any chance that you could post some pictures of your ducting?

All the best

2skiddy · 04-23-2008, 06:19 PM

Hi Peter, Sorry must have lost the email or never got it. Anyway I will try and get some photos but I am not good at downloading.
The basics: Yes remove the fog lights, who needs them anyway and less weight? This leaves 2 nice appertures, great start! Purchased 2 plastic oblong ducts from Demon Teeks that will fit behind the grilles and some flexible hose to suit. I think the hose is 67mm diam. On the right hand side there is plenty of room to get the flexible ducting through to the inner arch lining where you will have to cut a hole. Cut it slightly smaller than the hose then it will grip it better and stop it falling out. The left hand side is a little more difficult as there is a great big washer bottle in the way. I thought about this and enquired about a new bottle. £25ish from the stealers, not too bad. So, took bottle out, removed pig`s tail, and cut a great big U in the side of it. Reminded me of the metal man in Terminator when he got blasted with the 12bore/gauge? Just keep cutting the bottle until it is enough, but be careful of the float for the liquid level as it is fairly close. Then I cleaned out the bottle and scuffed up the cut edges thoroughly and closed the huge wound with some clear/white polyethylene sheet cut to shape and sealed with Sikaflex or similar. Leave taped up overnight to get a good bond. Put everything back together with TLC, remember not using the pig`s tail heater as it will not go back in the bottle now. Cut a hole in the arch liner similar to the RHS, feed the ducting through and you have air to the brakes. I wanted to use bigger ducting, but the amount of material I would need to remove from the washer bottle would have been a problem. I did think about relocating the bottle to the boot/trunk ala DTM, but it gets messy with electrics and plumbing as the loom is not meant for that. This was the easiest solution and if I got it wrong, it wasn`t too expensive to buy a new washer bottle!
It worked for me, I am used to track prep, it does take time, do it carefully.
It might not be road legal to make the washer bottle smaller and take out the heater with this mod. Check it out!
Cheers

blackbenzz · 04-23-2008, 06:32 PM

What did you put on the end of the ducts or did you just point the hose in the direction of the brakes?

2skiddy · 04-24-2008, 04:37 AM

The hose is just pointing in the direction of the brakes. It sticks out of the liner about 1/2" or so. You could extend further to the brake shield, but it would be a long hose to clear the tyre on lock. I might put additional ducting/deflector on the bottom suspension arms in due course. Every bit helps. I am getting some big Brembos soon, which are about half the weight of the original rotors and calipers. The standard brakes are good though, just heavy. Each front rotor is 12kg.
Happy modifying.

04-22-2008, 05:56 PM	#2
rsr911 MBWorld Fanatic! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,090 Drives: 2002 AMG CLK55, 2005 ML350, 1995 S320 LWB - totaled	Doing the fog light removal is a good idea. The problem with the W209 is, it is so heavy. Almost 450lbs heavier then my W208. The more extreme idea is put the car on a diet. If you are going to use the car for mostly track event and don't mind gutting it. GUT it!! Pull the very heavy seats out and put in race seats etc. etc. etc. Good luck! Tough choices I know. I thought of making a W209 into a track car but too much money and too much weigth. __________________ 2002 AMG CLK55 2005 ML350 Mercedes Benz Owner's Gun Club, Member #26 1995 S320 LWB (totaled 5/25/09) 2003 C240 4matic (sold) 1986 Porsche 911 (sold) 2002 Subaru WRX (track car) (sold) 1999 230 SLK (sold) 1973 450 SL (sold) 1973 450SLC (sold) "Time is too precious to keep it on an inexpensive watch"

04-23-2008, 10:30 AM	#3
blackbenzz MBWorld Fanatic! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Maryland Posts: 7,820 Drives: 01 Kleemann CLK55, 99 CLK430	I've been wanting to get some brake ducting made for mine for a longgg time. I should stop being lazy and just do it Anyone know the weight of the stock seats? __________________ Run Your Car Not Your Mouth This is how we roll

04-23-2008, 12:00 PM	#5
sick430 Super Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: So Cal Posts: 994 Drives: CLK430 Cabrio	heavy times like 10! i know the SL seats are about 200 each __________________ CLK430 Cabrio, K2, K2A, K3, K4, Comand, Multicontour Front Seats.

04-23-2008, 06:32 PM	#9
blackbenzz MBWorld Fanatic! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Maryland Posts: 7,820 Drives: 01 Kleemann CLK55, 99 CLK430	What did you put on the end of the ducts or did you just point the hose in the direction of the brakes? __________________ Run Your Car Not Your Mouth This is how we roll

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04-23-2008, 01:45 PM	#6
2skiddy Almost a Member! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nottinhamshire, UK Posts: 25 Drives: W209 CLK 55 AMG	Yes ducting is a great idea. It takes time to do and many people shy away as it involves a bit of thought and lying on your back. I have ducted the front brakes on mine and they seem fine, although the ambient was fairly cold on the 3 track days I have done. These cars are great on track by the way, if only people knew!!!!!!!!

04-23-2008, 04:00 PM	#7
Peterclk55 Almost a Member! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: London Posts: 26 Drives: clk55 amg (209)	Hey 2skiddy - I emailed you about this - it's you that planted the idea in my mind! Any chance that you could post some pictures of your ducting? All the best

04-23-2008, 06:19 PM	#8
2skiddy Almost a Member! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nottinhamshire, UK Posts: 25 Drives: W209 CLK 55 AMG	Hi Peter, Sorry must have lost the email or never got it. Anyway I will try and get some photos but I am not good at downloading. The basics: Yes remove the fog lights, who needs them anyway and less weight? This leaves 2 nice appertures, great start! Purchased 2 plastic oblong ducts from Demon Teeks that will fit behind the grilles and some flexible hose to suit. I think the hose is 67mm diam. On the right hand side there is plenty of room to get the flexible ducting through to the inner arch lining where you will have to cut a hole. Cut it slightly smaller than the hose then it will grip it better and stop it falling out. The left hand side is a little more difficult as there is a great big washer bottle in the way. I thought about this and enquired about a new bottle. £25ish from the stealers, not too bad. So, took bottle out, removed pig`s tail, and cut a great big U in the side of it. Reminded me of the metal man in Terminator when he got blasted with the 12bore/gauge? Just keep cutting the bottle until it is enough, but be careful of the float for the liquid level as it is fairly close. Then I cleaned out the bottle and scuffed up the cut edges thoroughly and closed the huge wound with some clear/white polyethylene sheet cut to shape and sealed with Sikaflex or similar. Leave taped up overnight to get a good bond. Put everything back together with TLC, remember not using the pig`s tail heater as it will not go back in the bottle now. Cut a hole in the arch liner similar to the RHS, feed the ducting through and you have air to the brakes. I wanted to use bigger ducting, but the amount of material I would need to remove from the washer bottle would have been a problem. I did think about relocating the bottle to the boot/trunk ala DTM, but it gets messy with electrics and plumbing as the loom is not meant for that. This was the easiest solution and if I got it wrong, it wasn`t too expensive to buy a new washer bottle! It worked for me, I am used to track prep, it does take time, do it carefully. It might not be road legal to make the washer bottle smaller and take out the heater with this mod. Check it out! Cheers

04-24-2008, 04:37 AM	#10
2skiddy Almost a Member! Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Nottinhamshire, UK Posts: 25 Drives: W209 CLK 55 AMG	The hose is just pointing in the direction of the brakes. It sticks out of the liner about 1/2" or so. You could extend further to the brake shield, but it would be a long hose to clear the tyre on lock. I might put additional ducting/deflector on the bottom suspension arms in due course. Every bit helps. I am getting some big Brembos soon, which are about half the weight of the original rotors and calipers. The standard brakes are good though, just heavy. Each front rotor is 12kg. Happy modifying.

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