How to: Removing embedded contaminents (grittyness) by clay

[StapleGun]

I used clay when I first obtained my car since the surface felt it had been oversprayed on the trunk and rear bumper by something...I tought it worked great, I only used it for that though. Just wax periodically now....

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[MBE55AMG]

Originally Posted by StapleGun

I used clay when I first obtained my car since the surface felt it had been oversprayed on the trunk and rear bumper by something...I tought it worked great, I only used it for that though. Just wax periodically now....

I suggest you clay periodically. If you just wax, you're only making it worse by sealing the contaminants in with wax.

[StapleGun]

Alright, duly noted....although I don't wax it that often, since she sits indoors most of the time..thanks for the 411

[MBE55AMG]

Originally Posted by StapleGun

Alright, duly noted....although I don't wax it that often, since she sits indoors most of the time..thanks for the 411

Glad to help.

Being indoor actually does not mean it's fully protected from mother nature. Wax evaporates (indoor or outdoor) over time and there's a loss of protection from loss of wax.

More info at http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

[Kar don]

ok, well the stuff ricky was talking about is the finish kare 3 step decontamination system. It works really well and deep cleans the paint better than clay. In most cases it is a replacement for clay however if the car is extremely soiled clay may still be required for the rocker panels. The first step removes all waxes, tar, and anything stuck on your paint. It works so well you will just see the water fully sheet off. The second step dissolves ferrous particles which are highly visible on white cars and other embedded contaminates instead of clay which just smoothes it out to the surrounding level of paint. Then the third step is a wash which neutralizes the paint and makes it ready for wax or polishing. I have had EXCELLENT results using this system and have solved many paint issues with it. Highly recommend it. Hope that helps.

[vraa]

http://www.fk1usa.com
There is the link for the Finish Kare stuff guys.

[MBE55AMG]

There's the answer! Good hearing from you Kardon and thanks Ricky.

[Rod Spohn]

You guys already know how good the clay works but I have to tell you. I spent Saturday working on my S320. I've been bugged by the way the finish looked. I printed off the first post / bought a clay kit and went to town on the car. I've used polishes in the past but they never made the paint look like this. The good info & advice her at MBWorld is awesome. Thanks to all, my car now looks the best it has since I bought it a few years ago. I'm not sure how often I should clay the paint - I see some say the do it with each wash. I don't have that kind of time but figure I'll work up a schedule for 4-6 times a year.

[MBE55AMG]

Originally Posted by Rod Spohn

I'm not sure how often I should clay the paint - I see some say the do it with each wash. I don't have that kind of time but figure I'll work up a schedule for 4-6 times a year.

To start off, good to hear we were of assistance to you.

As for claying after every wash, that is way out of context. It should only be done 2-3 times a year max, depending on the condition of the paint.

[MB AMG]

I just bought a big bar of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze, Professional DETAILING CLAY which has a blue stripe that says MILD. It says safely removes bonded surface contaminenets...

Any thoughts on this??

[boylston]

I'm a first-timer and I spent Saturday with my new Zaino detailing kit. The results are awesome. The full kit has all the product you'd need, unless the paint is in poor condition. The instructions in the kit helped me through the process. At various points I felt like a chemist with my mixing bottles and formulas, but it was actually a very easy process.

After washing with Dawn and drying, I used the car wash (1/2 capful in 3 cups of water) as a lubricant for the clay, and used a fresh Zaino applicator pad to apply the lubricant- a spray bottle isn't really necessary. Because it was on a new(ish) car, there wasn't much residue after claying and I only had to rinse the car and dry it before putting on the Z2 (the pink liquid) mixed with the ZFX. Then the gloss enhancer and the finish is like glass.

I believe that the Zaino clay has less abrasive than some of the others. One word of caution, don't let the claybar "rest" on the car. I lost my first claybar in less than 5 minutes when it slipped off the smooth surface onto the ground. Glad they include a second bar in the kit.

Plenty of product left for additional coats.

[Carnag]

Originally Posted by Kar don

ok, well the stuff ricky was talking about is the finish kare 3 step decontamination system. It works really well and deep cleans the paint better than clay. In most cases it is a replacement for clay however if the car is extremely soiled clay may still be required for the rocker panels. The first step removes all waxes, tar, and anything stuck on your paint. It works so well you will just see the water fully sheet off. The second step dissolves ferrous particles which are highly visible on white cars and other embedded contaminates instead of clay which just smoothes it out to the surrounding level of paint. Then the third step is a wash which neutralizes the paint and makes it ready for wax or polishing. I have had EXCELLENT results using this system and have solved many paint issues with it. Highly recommend it. Hope that helps.

Question...I just used the Zaino system including the clay bar with some excellent results. I am always looking for the best of the best products, and was wondering if you are still using the fk system? Also, what do you use as a wax or sealant? Do you use the fk products or Zaino, etc...What products do you recommend or use in the fk line? Thanks for the info!

[DarkCreep]

When you guys say DAWN, you mean dawn dishsoap right? Because I wash my car with that before I wax or clay. Other then that I use Mequiers.

[cntlaw]

I first time clayed my Jet Black E90 (milege now 13000km) with Mothers clay bar. No issues at all, I could just feel and see the dirt came off. I use Mothers Showtime as lubricate.

[allminesl550]

Ya, feeling what i think may be pollen may be time for a clay job, good to find instructions here thanks, but you write:step 3) "Rub the clay in a back and forth motion (front of car to back of car) using little to no pressure. If you hear or feel grit fold the clay bar into itself covering the side u just used to expose new fresh clay. I personally would fold the bar twice every 2x2 section just to be safe. If you do not you can induce swirl marks or fine scratches that will have to be polished out with a buffer. Also If u drop the clay bar, immediately discard the clay. It is worthless once it is dropped on the ground because the dirt off the ground will scratch your paint if u try and use it.

4)After u finish the section"

ok fine but can you expand a bit here, like sure i know to rub back and forth with the clay, but you didnt say how i will know or how i can tell ive rubbed enough in that spot and its time to move on.
For instance you can say how long it should take to clay the 2 by 2 area, 1 minute, 5 ninutes, how long typically?
Or you can say "after rubbing test by touching with your finger tips and try to determine if the roughness is now gone" If thats correct.
Or another guess "you can tell when the area that you're working on is finished by _______________" fill in the blanks.

Never been there before so im just making suggestions, anyway I might tackle the job myself, seems critical to me to have some sense for when its time to move the clay to another spot so as not to damage the surface or waste time.
Anyone who has clay'd their car, how long did it take you? 2 hours? 20 minutes?
Of course i know it "depends".
many thanks!
and be sure to buckle up!
and dont drink and drive either!
(unless its bottled water)

[Jen_Kenne]

Originally Posted by MBE55AMG

As for claying after every wash, that is way out of context. It should only be done 2-3 times a year max, depending on the condition of the paint.

I believe that a new car should be clayed, since it is likely to have picked up containments during transport to the dealer.