rear seat removal help...
#1
Almost a Member!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
95' E420
rear seat removal help...
i got a spring about to bust thru the leather in my back seat. can someone tell em how to remove the rear seat from the car? anyone with help or advice on how to fix the broken spring?
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 5,816
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W124's
There are two orange/redist tabs on each end of the rear seat - Push in and lift up and the seat will come out.
As for the broken spring - I'm out of ideas for that one.
As for the broken spring - I'm out of ideas for that one.
#3
Almost a Member!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
95' E420
as for the spring, i guess i will figure it out when i get the seat out. perhaps this is a perfect time to use my "seldom" used welder.
plus, this may be a perfect time to do my first "how to" post!!
Thanks bud!!!
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Diego Californ-i-a
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
89 300TE, and 68 280sel
Welding springs doesn't really work, it changes the properties of the metal. I seem to remember trying this at a shop I worked at in HS, we tried it on a w123 seat and it didn't fair too well. Rear seats are super cheap since no one ever buys back seats from parts yards, I'd try pricing one out before going to all of that trouble. Find one that has is in not so good of condition and just swap out your pads and leather so that it matches. Try www.gundies.com, I know they have a ton of w124 rear seats that they never sell.
#5
Super Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Motor City
Posts: 696
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
95 E320 Cabriolet, 108K
The springs are hard drawn wire (ASTM A 517). (I do metallurgical failure analysis for an OEM interior supplier, including spring mat fractures). The springs can break from fatigue, often at bend points. I'm not sure what a good fix would be. As mfb said, welding would only result in localized stress risers in the material for further fatigue and fracture.
Perhaps you could find some tubing to slip-fit over the broken ends as a patch, or place some sheet or plate steel to prevent poke-through.
Edit: I just talked to one of my interior supplier clients. They basically said what mfb said, there is no fix - just replacement.
Perhaps you could find some tubing to slip-fit over the broken ends as a patch, or place some sheet or plate steel to prevent poke-through.
Edit: I just talked to one of my interior supplier clients. They basically said what mfb said, there is no fix - just replacement.
Last edited by Kestas; 01-26-2007 at 11:38 AM.