tranny swap

[Dimmuburger]

ok, my '95 e320 needs a new transmission, and I can save 500 needed dollars if I swap them myself (its a rebuild from a reputable rebuilder). has anyone ever done this themselves (to a w124), and is it a royal pain, how long did it take, any tricks/trouble spots, etc. Thanks!

[neanderthal]

honestly, it depends on your mechanical aptitude and the type of environment you will be working it. if you have a pit or lift, then no worries. but on your back in your garage.........?!?!?!?!?!?........ erm, i say no.

i suppose with enough time i could do it in the garage, but id have to buy a high lift floor jack, and somehow elevate my jack stands to get adequate room.

ive done that with my BMW 2002, but thats with a 4 speed manual, in a vintage car where there wasnt really much to do once youd
unclipped the reverse light switch
disengaged the clutch slave cylinder
unbolted the driveshaft
disengaged the speedometer drive

from there it was literally unbolt the cross member/ tranny mount
unbolt transmission from motor.

as you can see, not exactly the same cuppa tea

[fred1948]

Originally Posted by Dimmuburger

ok, my '95 e320 needs a new transmission, and I can save 500 needed dollars if I swap them myself (its a rebuild from a reputable rebuilder). has anyone ever done this themselves (to a w124), and is it a royal pain, how long did it take, any tricks/trouble spots, etc. Thanks!

I replaced the transmission in my 95 E320 using good jack stands and a transmission jack (Harbor Freight special). If you search you will find a lot of information. These are the highlights that I remember:

1. Remove the cable at the throttle body end like the instructions say. It looked like a pain to me and I decided to remove it from the transmission after the transmission was partially lowered. I had to remove the cable at the throttle body anyway to reinstall. I tied a string to the end of the cable before I pulled it out so that I could easily pull it back in and have it routed exactly the same. Also, the cable is easier to remove from under the car.

2. The top bolts that hold the transmission to the engine are very difficult to access. The trick is to use about 2 feet of extensions on the socket and work from the back of the transmission. At least one of them is impossible to see and very difficult to feel! If the transmission doesn't easily separate, then you still have one more to remove.

[Dimmuburger]

Thanks guys, especially fred1948! Thats what I needed to know, if there were any hard spots. I've never done an auto trans, so I was wondering how different it is.

[GEDaggett]

Originally Posted by Dimmuburger

Thanks guys, especially fred1948! Thats what I needed to know, if there were any hard spots. I've never done an auto trans, so I was wondering how different it is.

Automatic is typically easier than Manual when it comes to putting it back together becasue you don't have to align the clutch and discs. However be prepared that the tranny is a heavy bugger. But auto is a close to plug and play as you can get for trannies.

[fred1948]

Here is a link to a repair manual for the transmission that includes removal and installation.

[Dimmuburger]

Thanks guys, you rock!

[Quicksilver500]

Better buy a hardened 3-4ft 1/2inch extension, you need it to get half the bell housing bolts out. You really need a lift I can't imagine doing it in the yard, there is one bolt that is a royal pain to get its on the very top of the bell housing, you can't see or reach it unless you are really really really really skinny. If you think oh that was easy I got it, no, that wasn't it, its up higher haha. I had to loosen the motor mounts, after i had everything out of the trans but a few bolts, I jacked the front of the motor up to tilt the trans back so I could get my extension in there have a friend guide it while I pushed with one finger to get it on the bolt ONLY to find out it had been out before and the guys had broken the ear off, glued it back on, stuck the bolt back in it......wtf. But its actually easier on the 300's than the 420/500 after doing both, because you don't have to take the 17 year old exhaust out...

Also, I would buy a Hazet (MB tool maker) or hardened 5mm allen head for your 1/4 drive ratchet. MB likes to use those aluminum cap screws and you really want a sturdy hex head to get them out, replace them with steel ones, your be happier next time you take it apart, just don't over torque them.... Snap on is the only one I have found that makes a stuby swivel 5mm and that is useful for getting the trans lines loose from the block because 1 or 2 have stuff in the way.

Good luck! Its hard work but the satisfaction afterwards is amazing. Don't forget to get the updated k2 spring. Do a search on the forum, it will really firm up the shifts.

-Mike

[Ron in SC]

To get to the hard to reach top bolts on the bell housing you can lower the transmission from the rear support quite a bit, then you can get to the top bolts easily with a quite long extension as has been discussed.

I have done this job but I have a lift and that makes it a lot easier. I just lower the rear transmission mount and rest it on one of those tall jackstands that adjusts by screwing it up or down.

I think to do this job without a lift would require a person who is certainly younger and stronger than me.

Below are photos of tranmission. Once I had all bolts removed except two easy to access side bolts I lowered car on lift to point where I could get my homemade transmission jack under it. I then strapped it to jack, removed two bolts and lowered transmission. Once once it was down I raised car on lift and that was it as far as removal..