pifcat2

Found a clean solid black wagon with a blown engine. Owner was willing to cut his losses after a friend drove the car without water and I just removed the engine from my wrecked '87 sedan. I originally bought a non-running '90 CE for the transplant but the engine runs and the wiring is not exactly the same.

Questions:
1. Is there any differences with the 300TE and 300E transmission?
2. how about the differential ratio?
3. How do you convert the rear to shocks?

RBYCC

Transmission should both both be the same ( 722.3 ?).
1988 300TE has a 3.27 differential, sedan if it was a 1987 300E has a 3.07.
It has a hydropneumatic load leveling system.
The self adjusting dampers should be in the same location / mounting as shocks.
Directly replace them.
I would also remove the reservoir and the full hydraulic system.

Ed A.

ps2cho

Now we are talking

GEDaggett

Yea, just go get one of those 3.6 AMG's and that will take care of your idle issue.

pifcat2

Ed,

I've read the mounting is different so you need a fabricated mount. I actually haven't looked at the suspension yet but when I'm ready I do want to convert.

pifcat2

Boy what a job to pull then engine over the front radiator over rider. I have a cherry picker but a dirt driveway makes it difficult to move especially with no help. I had to raise it a max height but the last 5 inches of transmission still didn't clear even once I lowered the car off the ramps. I was tempted to remove the tires and drop the front end closer to the ground. The steering linkage took some weight, hopefully not damaged. I need to borrow a balance beam and a friend for the install.

I noticed differences between the engines. The engine was in an '87 sedan but it has the later cartridge oil filter so may be 3.2L block origin.

TE:

• Power Steering pump has an extra line routed under the front of the engine up through the alternator bracket and and back to the SLS. I'll swap the pumps
• Has oil tank and associated rear suspension components for SLS
• Has extra line to top of water reservoir, not sure why yet
• Routing for engine position sensor is routed differently and has a different plug. I'll use the TE cable
• Water temp sensor has two pins, RENNTech head has three pins. I will transplant it as long as the threads are the same
• Rear connector on head has 4 pin plug while RENNTech head has two single connectors, not sure why yet but can swap the plugs or cables

Will clean up the engine bay and engine before the install...

ps2cho

Wagons FTW!

pifcat2

Cleaned up the engine a little, swapped the Steering / SLS pump, found it odd there are 4 different mounting bolts. The bottom hose insulation disintegrated, I need to buy some high temp hose sheathing. Once I install the new engine and trans mounts I should be ready to reinstall.

1) Had to swap the two temp sensors, anyone know why they have different number of pins?

2) Rear heater hose fitting is part of engine hoist bracket, anyone know the best way to remove it? It seems to be held in the head.

3) Rear heater hose has a tee with a line to the top of the expansion tank, not sure why. It's not on my '91 and aftermarket tanks do not have the fitting.

ds190

With what please?

The hydraulic SLS strut lower mounting to the suspension arm is two bolts, and shocks mount with one larger bolt. The suspension arm would need to be modified to accept a traditional shock absorber.

MB ni Paktoy

I'm looking forward to this... pls post detailed info and pics if you can



good luck!

RBYCC

As you state with a traditional shock absorber...

I stated that they are in the "same location/mounting" but never claimed a straight bolt on.

Conversion will involve a bit of thought, especially since the engine swap will create much more power/torque.

More then likely the complete rear suspension including springs will be updated to a performance setup.

YNVDIZW124

That's just a temp sensor for your gauges and on the 190e it has 3 pins for the fan clutch. The important temp sensor that controls the EHA is by the 6th injector. I wouldn't worry about that sensor.

pifcat2

I've searched and found little to no documentation of a successful swap to regular shocks. I'm surprised no one designed a kit. One guy vaguely described he was able to use the existing mounting and cut the top of the shock off to clear the cover panel. Many other owners seem to like the SLS for it's weight adjustment and given it's also on the 500E, it may not be bad to keep until I want to lower the wagon. I need to research the 500E sites more as they tend to modify the suspensions for performance. The cost to repair a complete SLS system is expensive but apparently failures are usually in the accumulators which aren't too costly.

YNVDIZW124

No one makes a shock with the same mounting points that can replace the hydraulic shocks??

pifcat2

Maybe all the passionate SLS advocates have discouraged the development, lol.

• I cleaned the engine bay and 3.6L engine and borrowed an engine leveler bar.
• I wanted to replace the serpentine belt while it's out and found my tensioner adjuster was stripped. Fortunately I had a spare.
• As I remove more parts I find more issues. There was a little moisture under the water pump so I may replace the o-ring since it is so much easier now than when everything's re-assembled.
• I noticed the pulley dust caps were missing that can help the bearings fail, need to install my spares.
• I'm also thinking of replacing the Idle Control Valve hoses as they are hard to get to.

It looks like I may not reinstall the 3.6L for another week...

justinwrock

Hey pifcat, I too am looking for a conversion for the SLS. I have not tried to bolt up a sedan shock, but may try and see if it fits this coming weekend. I am looking for more adjustability for when I want to take it to the track.


Good luck with the swap.

Maybe one of these days, we can get together and brain storm ideas for how to overcome the rear SLS conversion.

pifcat2

You probably want a bigger swaybar with adjustable links. Ideally an adjustable spring mount too.

Haven't found any documentation on the conversion yet. Kent designed a kit for the W123, he may be working on one for the W124: http://mercedessource.com/node/3061

justinwrock

Anyone have a pair of Sedan shocks they can let me borrow to test out some ideas?

pifcat2

good plan, compare the LCA, springs, and shocks...

justinwrock

I know the LCAs have different mounting points. I know the springs in the kombis are also heavier duty.

But, I think that I may be able to just bolt in a W124 sedan shock. I will find out this weekend. Hopefully, its just a straight bolt in, and no mods are required.

pifcat2

This is taking more time,

• I replaced the broken o-ring on the dipstick tube and the top of the dipstick. The later was fine, it gets oiled and isn't exposed to the heat.
• I replaced all the water pump o-rings, i come to find the heater inlet o-ring at the rear of the head is the same at the pump.
• I cleaned up more as I removed items but will need pressure spray it when it's running.
• Hit a cross road, I went to use my Craftsman torque wrench and the head freewheels! I only used it once before and find out this model is prone to fail after it's year warranty. I either buy another or tighten by feel...
• I ordered the rubber bushings for the transmission lines
• I broke the fitting on the AC condensor and noticed my '87 spare didn't have the top L-frame and seal. Not sure it will make much of a difference
• I bought some Thermotech sleeve for the SLS line under the engine. Fits like a glove but I needed 1.5 pieces @$18 ea. Hopefully the hose won't leak
• Attempted to install new ICV hoses but the bolt that goes through the one nearest the head wouldn't turn. I didn't want to strip it so I decided not to replace them now. They must have been replaced along with the engine because the rubber was still pliable.
• Installed the power steering / SLS pump. Need to buy the Febi hydraulic fluid
• I noticed the tensioner doesn't have alot of adjustment, it may be the belt length or the adjustment at the alternator. It may explain why the adjuster was stripped.

reason why I didn't use the CE: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...sohc-m103.html

pifcat2

I rebuilt the $200+ SLS hose from the pump to under the front of the engine and up to the wheel well. I bought Gates 6G2 that cost $21, swapped the fittings, and wrapped it with Thermotec insulation $18 or 2x if I wrap the complete length. It's a little tricky but worth the effort, this hose is stronger. Notice how cracked the original hose got, the foam rubber insulation just flaked off.

I have to mention the truck parts man where I bought the hose told me it wouldn't work even though I said others have used this hose. He told me he would replace the fittings for $10 but when he saw the hose he explained they only work with their fittings and that mine were different. Anyway, I convinced him to sell me the hose to replace them myself.

justinwrock

I have replaced that hose.... 3 times.... All from the dealership.

pifcat2

finally got the engine installed but still need to connect everything.

• balance bar helped but it still bent the engine hooks, it should be ~4" longer
• should have padded the firewall, need to replace some padding
• I dropped the engine mount bolt into the cross-member!
• This block has a 103 part number that indicates it was not bored from a 3.2L M104.
• The oil filter cartridge looks like it was modified to fit, not sure why

rivcal4life

Haha I did the same thing with my engine mount bolt when I changed the mounts.

Even after reading GEDgagget did it too. A magnet tool got it out fine though.