ps2cho

This is a DIY, but its too long to post in the thread at top so I'll just link.

How to remove your w124 Transmission (my 88 300TE)

I may or may not rebuild, I will see how I feel once it is out. There is a shifting flare between 2-3, but the K1 kit (which I will show too) should fix that. Other than that there is no issues so I will see if I want to rebuild or not. Main reason I am pulling it is to fix the rear main seal as I am losing about 1 quart every 2 weeks and it is plastering my neighborhood Its gotten too much now so it is time.

At half way point taking lunch break pictures...

Start by jacking the car up completely off the ground. The higher the better. Safety first as always. I removed the exhaust completely...no pictures, but just unbolt @ exhaust manifold and unbolt all hangers then remove. Drain the transmission pan and torque converter (turn the TC with a large screwdriver until hole becomes visible).

You'll need either a transmission jack or something to support the transmission obviously before continuing.

Remove transmission mount crossmember. Unbolt the middle ones FIRST that attach to the mount before the side ones (opposite to picture) otherwise it just spins on the mount. I found out the hard way I guess.



With crossmember removed.





Transmission mount was not too bad, but I bought a new one anyway. I did find the top bolt was loose though and I could turn it with my fingers...Not so good.
Now unbolt the 3 flex disk bolts that go to the transmission and push out the way. No pictures shown, but straightforward as soon as the mount is removed.

Interesting to see though is that Flex Disk has 30k miles on it. You can already see a very small gap emerging. This is testament to keeping an eye on these!



10mm bolt and pull out the speedocable. Don't be shy just give it a tug.



With speedo cable removed.



Twist the yellow cap then it will pop out. Make sure to clean the plug with brake cleaner if there is any dirt at all.



Disconnect this vacuum hose.



Nice clean and washed exhaust shields...They were coated in oil before. 8mm bolts and they come right off. A nice touch if you have the time.

ps2cho

Bwahh!! The damn Torque Converter got stuck and did not want to come out with the tranny as one!! Had to remove the driveshaft completely to give enough space, but eventually she came out.

No more work tonight LOL!

Finish removing the Transmission cooler lines and brackets on both sides. Next remove the dipstick. There is a 5mm/6mm allen key facing upwards you can only access from below. Tip is to remove the adjacent cooler line bracket because it gets in the way. Plug each hole to prevent any dirt from getting in the transmission or vice versa. Get new crush washers for each of the cooler lines. They are 20c each and you have it off anyway!







Pop off the large black plastic cover/seal on the front with a large flat screwdriver and unbolt the (6) Torque Converter to Flex Plate bolts seen. You will need to turn the TC as you did earlier to remove the drain plug. (13mm)



Breaking free for the first time in her life!













I don't see the main seal leaking as there is no oil that side, but I will do it anyway to save me having to pull it again in 20k miles

Going to wash and clean it tomorrow (remember to plug your cooler holes!! Water in transmission = BIG PROBLEMO !!) and figure out my gameplan to rebuild or not. At the very least I will do the K1 kit and the main seal.

latief

awesome work (as usual!!)...i will be doing this in the near future as i have the same leak and other problems with my tranny....

Questions: how hard was it to get to the upper engine-tranny bolts? i heard those are a nightmare....what did you have to do to get to them ?

Also, how are you going to remove that flywheel to access the main seal? it seems a bit invloved as i am not sure what kind of bolts those are??


great work man, inspiring honestly

ps2cho

Yes...the top bolts were a nightmare....The one at 12 o'clock was the hardest and the only way it is able to be reached is by using about 6 extensions and going over the top of the whole transmission down to basically the propshaft. There just isn't enough leverage to get it from either the Left or Right side...

I am going to remove the flywheel and do the seal yes. It isn't leaking right now, but if it starts in 10k miles I will be kicking myself for not spending an extra 15minutes doing it.

ps2cho

Alrighty starting to get deep into this now...Couple questions:

1) Are they normally this clean?
2) edit: nvm got it
3) Are those bearings shown in the last picture meant to be bent over like that?
4) Should the output shaft have slack in it? I can move it around slightly, it is not solid. ^http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EOSbfLfMGc once it finishes processing

ps2cho

Looky looky!!

First B3 is toast! I'm so glad I followed recommendation to check it out!

ps2cho

To do the front pump seal, start by setting it out upside down. Remove the teflon seals (white) and set them aside. Compress the spring retainer until the snap ring is exposed in the center (there is a factory tool, but I just used an extra pair of hands and compressed /w 2 large screwdrivers in the retainer holes). Use a thin screwdriver and work it around carefully until it comes free. Remove the plate and all springs. Now pry off carefully the entire unit until the (6) rear pump bolts are shown. Unbolt all of them (20nm install) and the pump should be in your hand.

Replace ALL seals you have taken off so far (teflon be done at discretion).

Upon install use non-hardening sealant on the pump bolts. Take everything apart and clean it until its so clean you can eat off of it! Lubricate the gears with ATF upon reinstall.
The lip seals must point with the lips towards downwards towards the front of the pump (manual shows a picture of this)

ps2cho

Looks like I found out the hard way that different models use a different inner lip seal. I used the 260E on the EPC to find my parts because for some reason my 300TE didn't have any info.
The larger lip seal worked, but the smaller, inner one did not. It is different.

Larger lip seal part #123-272-0292
300TE inner lip seal Part # 126 272 009
260E inner seal part # 123-272-019

ps2cho

Got everything sealed up now...Going to drain any leftover fluid to make sure everything is fresh (for Synthetic) and do the K1 shift kit and that's it!

Here ya go...

latief

Inspiring...

what about filling it up with some cheap oil for a night, and see if it leaks before you install? just thinking out loud here .....

I will be doing this soon, awesome job man, seriously !!!

ps2cho

Nah...I see no reason why it should leak at all and its difficult to test that anyway because you can't copy the heat or movement...and also some seals leak for a day or two before they settle and swell.

I'm confident

pifcat2

Excellent DIY, may have to call it 300E transmission refurbishment or rebuild...

ps2cho

K1 shift kit...

Pretty straight forward and you can do this without removing the transmission. Just drain the fluid and drop the pan. Then just do as pics show. Very, very easy.











No torque setting for the screws...just do them tight. I half stripped one of them, so be careful. I will never remove these again more than likely, so I just reused it. It tightened up fine so no issues.

She is already to go back in now! Hopefully by the weekend we will see if all this effort has fixed the 2-3 flare and she is leak free! *fingers crossed*

ps2cho

Oh boy

No wonder I was having issues!!!
Looks like I made a whoopsie
I couldn't figure out why the TC wouldn't turn with everything back in. It was not happy at all...so 3 hours later everything comes back out and I find this...



Lucky I found both the broken pieces. While it was out I measured the Torque converter and it looks like the height is still in spec at 121.7mm vs 121.5mm new . The width was supposed to be 290mm new, but I measured 287.5mm...sound ok? There is no maximum in regards to the width. Could it just be the way it was welded?

The EPC only shows the pump as an assembly...can you purchase the gear separately? It looks like there was 5 revisions...so I am a little concerned over compatibility. The price of the entire assembly is not really an option...it is very expensive...

loclark757

Ok so what's the word? Made any new progress?

ps2cho

Bolted back up yesterday. Just got the new exhaust to put on and she's all done!

Fingers crossed no issues

loclark757

Nice man! Im about to put my stuff back together. Im dealing with a wide range of problems in within the engine systems.

How do I find out which transmission I have? I know its automatic but which one? Any way to decode the VIN? This thread is crucial***

How much did that transmission lift cost you? I need one pretty bad...

ps2cho

That jack was ~$50. Pretty cheap and did the job perfect.

You have the 722.3xx
You can use your VIN on the EPC to find out exactly the tranny #.

loclark757

EPC? Are you referring to the one on the dash board or the door sill...

Im hoping all I have to do is change the trans fluid, filter and a pan gasket or something. I definitely have to change a flex disc...

ps2cho

No, EPC: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/index.jsp

loclark757

Are there any special transmission tools that I may need to change the trans filter and gasket?

ps2cho

Nope. Not at all.

loclark757

What about flex disc repair/replace?

Is that info in the FSM or Transmission book?

ps2cho

It is in the FSM, but the process is straightfoward. As I have done it 3 times now, take my advice...Put jack under the transmission to support it and remove the mount. If you don't it makes getting the bolts done up a real nightmare. It's possible, but you'll struggle and twist and turn.

There is no repair, only replace. Check for gaps at the bolt holes and/or cracking on the disk.

loclark757

Ok cool!

Yeah I've got an old one that is toast that was taken off a ways back. I think my rear one needs to be replaced.

Im going to get one of those transmission jacks soon...

Wow! Three times you say...