bglz42

A couple of times now, the engine has died while idling in traffic. No warning, no roughness, just quits. Turn the key off, restart and it runs like a champ again. No malfunction showing on the display. Any ideas?

Jim

BlownV8

Probably a bad MAF. It will get progressively worse with time.

bglz42

Do I replace now, or is there a cleaning procedure?

I seem to remember it was repaced in the past on this car. I'll check the records.

Jim

bglz42

Did it again... left my wife stranded on the Kemah bridge. Retarted after 10 minutes. Ran for 10 minutes, then died when I pulled into the garage. What do you guys think: MAF or CPS? No malfunctions showing on the display. Thanks!

Jim

Stan55

I'd say it's the CPS. I had similar problem with my '99 E55. I was going down the freeway and it just died, no warning, hesitation or anything, it just died. I pulled to the side and after about 30 minutes it started. I took it into the dealer and they diagnosed it as a bad CPS. Haven't had anymore problems since.

MG

I had a problem with my CPS, the car would suddenly just die, but only at operating temps of 85c. It would start back up after cooling all the way down, which in the summer took hours

kchristos

What is CPS and MAF ?

bglz42

Thanks guys! It was the Crank Position Sensor, not the Mass Air Flow sensor...

Ala-benz

Is the the crank position sensor the same as below?

Product: Reference Sensor
F6010-100664
Siemens
Brands: HELLA
List Price: $107.00
Prices
As Low As: $79.44


Application:
2000 Mercedes Benz E 430 Sedan
POSITION : @ FLYWHEEL

From Auto Parts World website

4runner

The wife's 1999 E430 sport is experiencing some wierd problem and I have been unable to solve. This morning I took her car to work and was driving through traffic about 30-40 mph, when an ESP light came on immediately following the BAS light came on, then the engine shut-off while in drive in the middle of traffic. Turned the key off and tried to start on 7-8 different times but unable to fire up. After about 10 frustrating times the car finally starts and I make it to work with no more dash error messages. This also is what happened to her yesterday while driving.

5 weeks back the brake light switch due to ESP/BAS malfunction was replaced and along with MAF when engine light came on was also replaced in the same week. This seemed to work and no lights until this week.

Other than those two (2) issues the only things that have been done is oil & filter change, transmission filter and oil change, rear end oil changed, fuel filter replaced, air filter replaced, new spark plugs and radiator flushed w/new antifreeze.

Anyone experience this before where your engine dies while in drive then starts minutes later?? Any idea what this problem could be? Any fuse related issue that I need to be concerned with?? Took it to local repair mechanic to obtain information off his OBI II scanner and read nothing.

Really puzzled and was hoping to avoid trip to the dealer as our local MB dealer takes real good pride ($$$) in their service work. Any help is appreciated.

MG

Check your Cam Position sensor.

citruspilot

When I get in my wifes E420 it sometimes stops running too! Always at the worst possible time. Then I look at the gas gauge and its sitting on empty!

In other words, I only get to drive her car when its dirty and needs a wash, broken and needs to get fixed, or empty and needs gas!!

Jeff

zam2000

Exactly the same thing happened to me 2 weeks ago. The StarDiagnostic and the computer return no error code.

Turn out it's the CPS (Crank Position Sensor), so $120 in part, and $70 labor, car is back to normal. If you could manage to do the job, it's quite easy to replace. There's only one screw to attach the sensor to the engine, and it took my mechanic less than 5 min to replace the whole thing !!! (nevertheless, I think the labor charge is worthy, since his diagnostic skill is 10/10 so far).

4runner

Thanks guys, CPS changed and so far so good, seems to have been the problem.....Wife's happy...I'm Happy!

ProV1

another poster suggested using a hex key to loosen the screw that's holding the CPS down, i've yet to figure out how to work a hex key to loosen a female torx bolt...

Michael W210

Hey Guys,

My car is doing the CPS death march, starting last sunday. It ran all week and then did it again yesterday, dying in traffic and correcting in about 30 seconds. The code scanned to be the CPS...I dont feel like spending 300$ to get it fixed at the dealer---where is the best place to get it? Benz bin has it for $73, is that the best price?

Thanks a bunch...also where is it? I popped the hood and couldnt see any connectors lurking down by the harmonic balancer, but I was dressed kind of nice so I didnt dig.

ohlord

diy someplace here or over on benzworld,good price easy fix but tight area.remove engine cover it just pops off,with unit in hand,lol,look for the old cps on the backside drivers side bell housing ,look for the same part your holding r/r as instructed app to your model .
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ghlight=sensor
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
hi ray !was doing the write up same time as you

ohlord

germanstar.net $69.00
also be sure to watch out for the sharp metal edges back there, wear gloves,latex,and follow the directions posted and you'll be good to go.
What codes did you pull?sometimes the cps is going and it throws no codes at all,so yours must really be gone!
ohlord

Michael W210

When it died the first time, it threw a CEL. I got it scanned and it was the CPS code.

I had just gotten it out of the shop for a bum voltage regulator (which is one of the scariest things to go wrong as each system systematically goes out, so like every 15 seconds you're like $1500 more in the hole as BAS, ABS, ESP, etc keep going out) like 12 hours before. Isnt it funny how problems come in bunches? Sometimes I think after a major service the dealer breaks something....


Which part # do I need for the sensor? I have a late (July) 01 car and my trim tag is as follows


7047977 9 349 581
210065 12 414 801
1809 2 423 810
10 211 494 955
429 744M 551
C

ohlord

Give germanstar a call I think it is the late year part number,when you call they will confirm the #.They ship pretty quick,my MAF insert was here in 3 days or so.
post that cps code or codes for all to see,I forget to write them down and looking them up when I"m on the run is tough.

ohlord
"GOT CODES?"

Musikmann

I see you are in Lexington, KY and I have been to James Motors but never for service (I live only 2 hours east of you on I-64). They might be "OK" as dealers go, but I was unimpressed with the one salesman I dealt with there. Another guy living in Mount Sterling does not like them either, and he has had service done there. Please just take comments post with a grain of salt, but I don't think I'll ever use them for anything.

nelson76

I have a problem on a 1997 E320 it cranks and runs for 20 seconds the most then dies,usually it's more like 2 seconds running,i changed out the cps and it started and ran for almost a minute then just died again,i have fuel pressure and no codes,weird thing is if i step on the gas it instantly dies also i took off the MAF and it looks clean,left the MAF off and started the engine while blocking the intake hose and it ran for as long as i blocked the intake hose,anyone have any ideas?

kickstartjoe

My 1999 E320 4matic runs about 20 minutes, and then stops suddenly. After another 20 minutes or so, it will start. Then it runs about 10 minutes and stops again. I'd like to sort this out, obviously.
I suspected the fuel pump or fuel pump relay, so bought a new relay (16$ from the dealer). When the car died, I replaced the relay (located next to the battery under the rear seat), and it did not solve the problem (the fuel pump did not run). I then removed the relay and jumpered across the relay (from the sole east-west pole directly across to the north-south pole opposite it), and the fuel pump worked, but the car would not start. When the car died, I checked voltage to the opposite N-S pole, and it was present.)
With the relay in, after the car died, I cracked the fuel line under the hood, and gas ran out for a minute or so and then stopped. This is with the ignition on, and the gas flowed due to being depressurized. When I cranked the engine over, no additional gas came out.
I think no current is getting to the relay to close the circuit I closed by jumping across the relay. I have no idea where current comes from to the relay poles connected to the smaller guage wires.
Any advice and direction on this is greatly appreciated. I am now suspecting the ignition switch.
Joe

cneedham810

sounds to me like the crank shaft position sensor. Happened to me on my 2000 e320. Stalled out on me, then I would let it sit for a while and would start up like normal. Cheap fix maybe 70 dollars for the part? Check that out

MG

I had the same problem and it was my CPS, MAF also suspect on these cars. Replace both.