97 E320 Engine Won't Start

Zanna4 · 05-15-2009, 02:22 AM

Hello ladies and gents,

I bought a 97 E320 on February with 82k miles on it. I have put around 2.5k of mileage so far since I bought it. The car has a clean mechanical and accident history.

It has small problems like burned out bulbs, leak on powersteering fluid that causes noise, but this forum has helped me so far. However I have now come across the first problem that leaves me scratching my head, the engine won't start!

Yesterday I took my car and ride to Oklahoma City (I live in Stillwater, OK), with a total round trip of around 150 miles. I guess it is the first long drive with my beloved W210 in the hot summer day. Well I got back to Stillwater, and the car still restart smoothly on two occassions before I finally drive the car to go to work. After about 5 hours I got out of work and try to start the car, it cranks but the engine just won't start running.

When this first happened just before I took out the key to try to restart, I saw a red sign on my odometer that says "+ Battery Charge -" (or something to that effect), and then ABS and ETS light turned on. So this promptly make me think that the battery is the problem. On the consequent occassions though, that Battery, ABS, ETS sign will never appear again.

So then I asked my friend to give me a jumpstart by following the manual closely but the car still won't start. So I left the car overnight at my work and today took out the battery and brought it in to Autozone for a battery check. The battery tester machine deemed it is a good battery.

So this is where I start scratching my head lightly. Next thing I do was checking the fuses and they all seemed in working condition. I have a limited knowledge of automobile in general, so I have come to a dead end. What else could it be guys? The starter solenoid? Fuel pump? CPS?

Please direct me to do DIY check ups so I can eliminate possibilities one by one and come to the main problem. I am sorry if I make this post too long, but I really want to get as much detail as possible. Looking forward to all your responses..

Thank you

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Max Hughes · 05-15-2009, 09:15 AM

Is the tip of your key broken? If that's the case then its the car not turning on the fuel pump. Run the codes and see if the MAF is cooked.

tirona · 05-15-2009, 03:28 PM

maybe alternator or voltage regulator?

Zanna4 · 05-15-2009, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Hughes

Is the tip of your key broken? If that's the case then its the car not turning on the fuel pump. Run the codes and see if the MAF is cooked.

I tried two keys so far 1 of the master key and the valet key. As far as I can tell both of those keys are in a fine shape, no broken tips that I observed. However, I did have key problems when I first bought my W210. Basically the engine of the car had a problem starting with the two master keys that I have, but started nicely with just one attempt every time with the valet key. However after one month of driving it regularly this problem almost never happen again. Can this problem related to my current one though?

I will try to run the codes tomorrow and see what comes up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tirona

maybe alternator or voltage regulator?

I actually thought of that but haven't go through it yet. I will try checking on them this weekend when I have more time. However a bad alternator will usually light up the service engine light doesn't it? When the key is turned to mid position all electronics function properly, be it radio, power windows/roof.

**UPDATE**

So I tried to start the car today but first of all before I fully crank it I cranked it just for a second, pulled the key out and start it again (normally). And you know what? The engine starts!

But it was shortlived for like 5 seconds, and consequent attempts were not successful. I have a gut feeling that it has something to do with the fuel isn't fired properly to the engine when I start the car with the key.

Anybody probably can narrow it down more with all the symptoms that I have so far?

Thank you again guys..

TMAllison · 05-15-2009, 05:52 PM

Lacking a CEL usually narrows these things down to either batt voltage, supply (K40 relay), DAS (ign/key), or the CPS.

The fact it starts, then dies suggests the CPS is in complete failure mode rather than its usual intermittent fault phase.

Zanna4 · 05-15-2009, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Lacking a CEL usually narrows these things down to either batt voltage, supply (K40 relay), DAS (ign/key), or the CPS.

The fact it starts, then dies suggests the CPS is in complete failure mode rather than its usual intermittent fault phase.

Basically you are saying that it is either the CPS isn't working properly or it does not have power to run properly because of the three other possible cause right?

I will look into it more tomorrow, thanks for all the response guys. If anybody wants to add a piece of their mind into my problem please do!

Thank you

ohlord · 05-15-2009, 11:09 PM

for fuel pressure,check fuse for fuel pump,check for fuel at the fuel rail.

Zanna4 · 05-18-2009, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohlord

for fuel pressure,check fuse for fuel pump,check for fuel at the fuel rail.

Ohlord I was checking the fuses but could not find the fuse for the fuel pump, do you know if its located under hood or under rear seat and what is the number of the fuse?

Thanks

Zanna4 · 06-02-2009, 08:39 AM

I already ran the codes and nothing came up. Any other ideas guys? I am now thinking the ECU. Seems that fuel pump is working fine.

sunny61 · 10-23-2009, 05:27 PM

zanna, I had an identical problem on my Nissan pathfinder. It took my mechanic almost 2 months to figure out what was wrong, the car had no fault codes, had spark at the plugs, fuel pump had correct pressure meaning everything checked out but the car would only startup for maybe 2-5 seconds then die again. and just like you it worked perfect until the moment it just stopped. (BTW... the car started every time when my mechanic hooked up an external fuel source to bypass the fuel pump...strange tell me about it ;-))

... long story short the problem turned out to be a bad distributor, something within the distributor sends a signal back to the COMPUTER that tells the fuel pump to send more fuel well this function would stop the moment the car started causing fuel to be cut. the car always passed the self diagnostics but the distributor failed to actually work like it was supposed to.

Again, i dont know if my nissan scenario is at all comparable to mercedes... i just wanted to share one my strange experiences which hopefully will help you find a solution for your problem

Sunny

05-15-2009, 09:15 AM	#2
Max Hughes Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 299	Is the tip of your key broken? If that's the case then its the car not turning on the fuel pump. Run the codes and see if the MAF is cooked. __________________

05-15-2009, 05:52 PM	#5
TMAllison Super Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Bay Area, CA Posts: 680 Drives: 99' E300	Lacking a CEL usually narrows these things down to either batt voltage, supply (K40 relay), DAS (ign/key), or the CPS. The fact it starts, then dies suggests the CPS is in complete failure mode rather than its usual intermittent fault phase. __________________ T. Allison 85' 300D 311k miles 99' E300 275k miles

05-15-2009, 11:09 PM	#7
ohlord MBWorld Fanatic! Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 4,434 Drives: E55 powered E320 Wagon,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross,94subaru, 2000 E320 wagon.	Check for fuel pressure,check fuse for fuel pump,check for fuel at the fuel rail. __________________ "whatever you say, you speak into existence" ohlord Cognomen is in homage to the late great Janis Joplin "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz" W210 Wagons,a few MG's,assorted others and a partridge in a pear tree. pm me if you need me

10-23-2009, 05:27 PM	#10
sunny61 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 6 Drives: 1997 E320	zanna, I had an identical problem on my Nissan pathfinder. It took my mechanic almost 2 months to figure out what was wrong, the car had no fault codes, had spark at the plugs, fuel pump had correct pressure meaning everything checked out but the car would only startup for maybe 2-5 seconds then die again. and just like you it worked perfect until the moment it just stopped. (BTW... the car started every time when my mechanic hooked up an external fuel source to bypass the fuel pump...strange tell me about it ;-)) ... long story short the problem turned out to be a bad distributor, something within the distributor sends a signal back to the COMPUTER that tells the fuel pump to send more fuel well this function would stop the moment the car started causing fuel to be cut. the car always passed the self diagnostics but the distributor failed to actually work like it was supposed to. Again, i dont know if my nissan scenario is at all comparable to mercedes... i just wanted to share one my strange experiences which hopefully will help you find a solution for your problem Sunny Last edited by sunny61; 10-23-2009 at 05:32 PM.

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05-15-2009, 03:28 PM	#3
tirona Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 213 Drives: 1997 s320, 1997 e320	maybe alternator or voltage regulator?

06-02-2009, 08:39 AM	#9
Zanna4 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 5 Drives: 97 E320	I already ran the codes and nothing came up. Any other ideas guys? I am now thinking the ECU. Seems that fuel pump is working fine.

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