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E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

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Old 10-06-2009, 03:52 PM   #1
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2002-E320-Shivers in Idle

I have two issues and like time, hope to get answers from the forum.
  1. Whenever the car is stopped at a stop light, the car shivers in idle.
  2. At 50+ MPH, the ride is bumby. 4 tires are new purchased 2 weeks back - balancing was done then - complained to Sears and they replaced the 4 tires with a better set of tires - still the problem is there.
Before I go to to dealership and get whacked by a 1k bill, I would like to know what might be the cause. Any idea what might be causing this? Any help will be highly appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:25 PM   #2
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I have the same problems.

For the shivers it should be coil packs+new spark plugs.

For the ride, have a mechanic check your front ball joints.

How many miles do you have on your car?
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:56 AM   #3
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Get your engine mounts checked first mine had collapsed 2001 e430.

I changed the spark plugs and plug leads on mine first and whilst there was an improvement the new mounts made the engine almost totally vibration free.


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Old 10-07-2009, 02:37 PM   #4
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The rubber rim 2nd from the top, up to the top of the mount, measures 17mm when new.

At 13mm the mount is considered collasped.

Use a 13mm bolt head as a feeler gauge.
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Old 10-07-2009, 03:14 PM   #5
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The shivering could be from engine mounts.

Bumpy ride... that could be a multitude of things. Is one particular axle or particular side or particular wheel bumpier than the others?
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:02 AM   #6
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Thanks to all for posting your replies. My laptop HD died on me last week hence did not get a chance to check the posts. My vehicle has 93,500 miles.

I took the bite and went to the MB dealer. Turned out 2 spark plug cables - they did not fire at all apparently but the plugs turned out to be fine. Once replaced it is almost smooth.

The bumby ride was an issue of tire balancing. Once rebalanced using Road Master, the ride is now very comfortable.

The recommendations from them was the following,

1. Change all spark plugs ($690)
2. Breather replacement for one value ($320)

Are the spark plugs this expensive? Any ideas? What would you recommend.
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:33 PM   #7
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Get the 17mm special boot

spark plug tool.
Get 12 ngk7090 plugs at about 3bucks each and spend 2-3 hours doing your plugs.
pm me for the tool and i can talk you through the spark plug change.
Easy diy if you spend the time and follow directions.
Stop going to sears for tires
Stop going to the dealer for repairs
They will broke you
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:35 PM   #8
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I just changed my plugs a few weeks ago. I think I spent about $30 on plugs and it took about 1 hour to change them. Does the $690 include new wires ?
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:46 PM   #9
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Nope - it is just for the spark plugs. Two of the wires are already replaced in this round of fix.
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Old 10-13-2009, 02:21 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illest View Post
I just changed my plugs a few weeks ago. I think I spent about $30 on plugs and it took about 1 hour to change them. Does the $690 include new wires ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jojuseb View Post
Nope - it is just for the spark plugs. Two of the wires are already replaced in this round of fix.


LOL i like the sarcasm. Yea, my car shivers in idle too. I had spark plugs change abour 10k ago. My tech says it's a sign for new motor mounts. Also, do you guys experience any "engine valve cover leakage"? both our W211 and W210 are leaking due to broken seal....
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Old 10-13-2009, 07:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueC230K View Post

Also, do you guys experience any "engine valve cover leakage"? both our W211 and W210 are leaking due to broken seal....
On the V6 in the W210 two common leakage areas are: 1) the oil inspection port which is a 1"x2" (roughly) plate mounted to the front of the engine just below the oil filter housing and 2) between the upper and lower portions of the valve covers. If you look carefully you'll see that there is a raised portion near the front of the valve cover on the left (driver side) one and near the rear on the right one. The fix is to remove the valve cover and lay a bead of sealant between the two halves.

Of course, there are a lot of other possible areas to leak so cleaning and then inspecting is the strategy.

Good luck
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:17 AM   #12
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I had the engine mount inspected. The mech says that it is still pretty tight and not shaking. Nevertheless, I had them replace the 12 spark plugs. I am at 98K anyways. The shivering has slowed down, but still there. This puzzles me!!!
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