BLACKCDI

Decided to change my original fuel filter today and take some pictures along the way.
MB in Walnut Creek CA quoted $180 for the labor not including misc. clamps.
Dealer quote for fuel filter $75.
My cost $45 for the fuel filter from mileoneparts.com

1) REMOVE DRIVER SIDE PLASTIC ENGINE COVER, YOU WILL NEED TORX DRIVE


2)AN OLD DIRTY FUEL FILTER (89K MILES ON IT).


3)UNDO THE FUEL LINES. YOU WILL HAVE TO USE NEEDLE NOSE PLYIERS TO TAKE OFF THE OLD CLAMPS. I REPLACED MINE WITH REGULAR FUEL CLAMPS FROM AUTOZONE, SO FAR THEY WORK GREAT!


4)UNDO THE TORX SCREW ON THE BRACKET AND REMOVE THE FILTER. I ALSO REMOVED THE BRACKET TO SAND IT DOWN AND PAINT IT.


5)GENTLEY PULL OUT THE WATER SENSOR FROM THE OLD FUEL FILTER. CHANGE THE SEALS AND INSTALL IN ON THE NEW FILTER. APPLY SOME DIESEL ON THE SEALS SO THE SENSOR WOULD SLIDE IN EASY.



6)NEW FUEL FILTER WITH SENSOR INSTALLED.


7)REINSTALL EVERYTHING BACK. THIS IS THE FINISHED WORK WITH ALL THE FILTER AND ALL THE CLAMPS REPLACED, BRACKET REPAINTED.




8)THAT'S IT FOR THE HARD PART, NOW PUT THE KEY IN POSITION 2 AND HOLD IT THERE FOR 30SEC. RETURN THE KEY TO POSITION 0 AND START THE CAR.

W211 Ryda

Thanks for the DIY! Love these kinda threads!

pinebaron

I agree; excellent content.

Wolfgang

Thanks for the pictures.

Noticed you installed the old part number 646 092 06 01. It has been superseded by 646 092 07 01 according to the EPC (MBUSA's online electronic parts catalog available at http://www.startekinfo.com). But the changes might be small or unimportant....

BLACKCDI

Will install the new one in 30k miles The 06 01 was the newer part number than the original filter. Thanks for the ETK website, this is what I've been looking for!

BLACKCDI

Just as I was getting excited about the website I realized you have to pay subscribtion fees every time you enter it.
Why can't there be a simple and free version of this BMW http://www.realoem.com website for MB parts?
Hate going to the dealer every time I have to find out the MB part number I need

Wolfgang

Subscription for EPC is just $20 for a year and probably worth it for someone who likes to work on the Benzes.

Alternatively for filters and such, one could also use the fast moving parts catalog, a much simpler, but free version.

http://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/fmpc/parts/index.jsp

BLACKCDI

Yep, found it, I was looking in a wrong place. Thanks!

Miguk_Saram

Awesome post.

DIY threads rock!

Mnymaker

Have you noticed any improvements in performance or mileage after the change?

BLACKCDI

Maybe it's my imagination but the engine seems to idle more smooth and it's more quiet. Anyway, the change interval on the CDI fuel filter is at 30k miles I think, so it was long overdue for replacement at 89k.

Mnymaker

I guess I better get on that before the weather gets too cold since I'm hovering around 58 - 59K, which means I'm twice the recommended mileage and considering I rack up about 4K a month I might want to follow that nice set of instructions you listed and save $150 bucks.

Thanks

guanabara

Very nice and detalied pictures. Congrats.
As far as the clamps go, I would think that the original ones are more guaranteed to stay over long term than the ones tightened by screws wich may come loose with time as either the hoses dry up and shrink or the screws themselves come undone.
I have heard that sometimes the original ones break or are hard to work with, but new ones from the same place you bought the filters from would probably be a good idea.

lkchris

The OE clamps will always be tightened to specification. (by design)

Screw-type clamps will either be undertightened or overtightened. There is no published torque spec for screw-type clamps.

BLACKCDI

Well, the screw type clamps are holding, so far so good! All you have to do is as Germans say put them on goodandtight so they won't leak. Atleast I can tighten them a bit more if they ever start leaking. I have 90k miles on my CDI and I guarantee as soon as you hit 50k you will see most of the original clamps fail and leak diesel all over the engine.

guanabara

You have a good point my firend, so I would tend to err on the side of making them goodandtight, very tight.
Yeah those sping loaded things are quite thin and I could see them rusting out and failing as you said. In fact I have read several posts where people say that they fell apart while they tried to remove them. That's not a good confidence as to their potentially expected life.
The screw clamps have been around for quite some time. Maybe as a matter of safety the screw head contact with the clamp can be potted (use nail polish for example), so as to prevent the screw from getting loose.
As everything else a routine inspection is always a good idea.

jimbo1mcm

Thanks to Black CDI:fuel filter change on CDI. I have some additions that I did. I ordered a special tool to change the OEM Click clamps. You can find it on the internet. This tool is well designed and works by having a designed " shoulder" in the tool to open the clamp. After you install the new clamp, you reverse it and use the tool to install the new clamp. Once you have it, you can see how it works pretty easily. I did everything that BLACK CDI recommended, except I purchased from the dealer a few OEM CLICK clamps. The smaller clamp on the fuel line input is 0069971890, a 13mmplus clamp. The clamp on the output line is 0059971990 a 15mmplus clamp. I wanted to use these clamps because they are OEM and I am still under the extended warranty. Use a torx 30 to loosen the filter body and a torx 15 for the removal of the water sensor. The job is pretty straightforward. I undid the fuel filler cap first, then removed the top engine cover. I then used the tool and loosened the two clamps and also took off the electrical connector. I did place a towel under the filter, but if you keep the hoses vertical, no fuel spills out. The hoses, if they havent been changed can be a little tight, but if you wiggle them enough they will loosen up. After the new filter is installed with new clamps, I closed the fuel filller cap and turned on the ignition to start the fuel pump. Slowly open the top bleed cap by turning until a little fuel comes out. Close it down and you are done. Took about 30 minutes because it was my first time and wanted to be careful. Good luck.

FWhite

Where did you find the special pliers? I have been looking and not having any luck. Thanks for any help.

jimbo1mcm

I bought a full set of pliers which included the clic pliers from Astro Pneumatics, and paid about $95, but I found these on ebay. It is just what you need. good luck.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLIC-...QQcmdZViewItem

jimbo1mcm

I used clic clamps ( when you tighten them you hear a click when they are fastened ) because my car is still under warranty. If you put a regular screw type clamp on and it becomes loose, you get diesel fuel down into the insulation of the bottom engine cover. That would have to be replaced. You also would probably have to have the serpentine belt replaced. The belt is about $70 and the labor on the CDI is about 1 and 1/2 hours because they have to take off the front engine shroud. You would also have to have the engine washed. So you can do the math and see that you should use an OEM clamp.

FWhite

Thanks for the info. I already have clic clamps and a fuel filter. I agree that constant tension clamps are a lot better than screw clamps.

diesels rock

I drive a 2005 black CDI. Unfortunately prior to coming across this site, I had all services ABCDE...you get the point...done at the dealership, everytime those &*^% service lights come on. I have 93k mi. on the car now, so do the math. Wait, I did change my brake pads once. The parts guy asked me what i was going to do with it when I p/u the pads. Implying I'm a cheapskate. Needless to say, I'm glad to learn that people do their own maintenace all the time. With that said, I'm wondering if anybody can tell me how to reset and change my oil, my tranny and brake fluids. Are there any special procedure I need to know. I'd appreciate any info I can get. THANKS

DTWinters

I just replaced the fuel filter on my 2007 E320 Bluetec earlier today and I wanted to share that it was a very easy procedure. Removing the various wiring connectors, the tubing for the turbo, the water sensor, and the filter itself went very smoothly. The entire fix took me 1 hour and the filter cost me $35 delivered. I'm guessing it will take me 45 minutes or less next time.

The biggest challenge was simply loosening the rubber hoses off the inlet and outlet for the filter. I did buy a Clic-R wrench off Ebay for roughly $22.50 and that helped tremendously but the hoses still take some work to get off the fittings. The wrench had an auction title of "VW/Audi/Mercedes Benz Clic-R Collar Pliers Tool Clamper".

I am amazed that the local dealer was going to charge me 3 hours of labor and another $50 in parts. All in it was going to be roughly $350. When I went to the dealer parts counter to buy the Clic-R clamps to replace the filter myself the guy came back and shared that a mechanic had told him that the book value is 3 hours but they often spend more time than that and they wouldn't recommend a shade tree mechanic try this particular fix. I now wonder if they didn't want me to learn how easy of maintenance this actually is because it would make them look bad!

So, if you are handy and don't want to give up much of your annual savings in fuel costs, definitely replace the fuel filter yourself every 2 years or 20,000 miles!

Regards,
Trevor

sunny_j

is that the regular service interval for the fuel filter?

lkchris

No conspiracy theories, please.

It's good that you replaced the CLIC clamps with new ones, as WIS specifies. Use of screw-type clamps is prohibited and really stupid, as the only guarantee that comes with them is that you'll either get them too tight or too loose.

I recently got a free filter on the OM642, as my paid-for installation at 20K miles failed a little less than a year later. A little diesel leak goes a long way as far as smell goes.

The first diagnosis was a defective filter, but then they eventually ended up replacing every hose attached to it (warranty). The mechanics at my dealership are top notch and award winners, and I agree 100% with the DIY caution you were given.

Every other service is indeed the change interval.