Strange noise from front… ?

[bigsmile1130]

Originally Posted by rostov Guys, Is there any fluid in those engine mounts??? No fluid in mounts as far as I can tell

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[vettdvr]

Originally Posted by bigsmile1130

No fluid in mounts as far as I can tell

The work order on my car stated, Found engine mounts leaking replaced.

So I would assume there is a fluid in them.

[MercFiveHundred]

Guys,

I just changed the engine mounts - same noise. So its NOT the engine mounts. I changed the tranny mount about 2 weeks ago too.

Has anyone that had the nosie go away had it return? Bigsmile?

If anyone needs motor mounts let me know - these are my old ones that seem to be ok. PM for price.

[bigsmile1130]

I replaced my motor mounts and transmission mount about 2 months ago so far so good no noise has returned

[bigsmile1130]

Could you describe the noise please

[rostov]

I got rid of that noise - a month ago I traded my Mercedes for BMW 550i.
Got to tell you – I miss that “noise” already!

Anyhow, good luck to all of you guys fixing this issue. And hope you won’t have to fix your Es too often – I still believe these are the most beautiful cars out of whole Mercedes lines.

Will see you in ML section (hopefully for off topic chat only).

[vettdvr]

Originally Posted by rostov

I got rid of that noise - a month ago I traded my Mercedes for BMW 550i.
Got to tell you – I miss that “noise” already!

If your 550 reliability is better you will have made a smart choice. Keep us informed on reliability. Hope you don't miss the noise. The one thing I want to miss is the MTBF every 8,000 miles.

[MercFiveHundred]

Originally Posted by bigsmile1130

Could you describe the noise please

Like a big stone rattling in a plastic milk carton.

You said you changed the lower ball joint too, right? Did you get alignment afterward?

BTW - if anyone does the engine mounts, they are tough to get out.
1. Open hood, remove air inlet housing and use a 16mm short socket to remove the top bolt of the mount from under the exhaust manifold. (both sides) This is the hardest part.
2. Remove ALL underbody covers.
3. Jack car up by front cross member jacking point.
4. Put 2 ton jack stands under the two front jack points.
5. Remove 4 bolts from the power steering rack 18mm. These are two sided meaning there is a 18mm nut on the other side of the bolt. you need a wrench to hold the nut in place and use the socket underneath. These are on tight and you may need to use an extension pipe to start it.
6. Drop the power steering rack and let it hang.
7. Remove the lower engine mount bolt 13mm (i think that was it). I was missing this bolt on the passenger side and the driver side was rusted out. So i replaced them with new bolts.
8. Jack the engine up on the oil pan spot slowly. Make sure you don't go too high. U just need to slide it out but a little more height is better to have.
9. Slide out both mounts through the passenger side space made by dropping the steering rack. The passenger side should come out no problem, but the drive side will need some wiggling but should come out with out too much effort.
10. Slide the new mounts in. Be sure to align the metal stub on the top of the mount between the spot on the mount arm. Bolt the top bolts to the mount first. You may need a friend to confirm the metal stub is align properly. This will ensure the positioning of the mount.
11. Drop the engine slowly but not all the way down. Insert the bottom bolts as you may need to move the mount slightly (this is the reason not to drop the engine all the way down).
12. Drop the engine all the way down. Re-tighten all the bolts on the mounts - bottom and top - again to ensure it's tight.
13. Put back the power steering rack. Do not tighten one bolt at a time. Instead, just try to get the holding plate aligned and put all the bolts and nuts on w/o tightening. Then tightenen one by one - crossing over to the other corner (like tightening wheel lugs).
14. Lift car on cross member, remove jack stands on the side, drop car, and install the air housing.

To me, this is a 8 out of 10, 10 being the hardest. I did this with my brother so it wasn't that bad. My arms are all scratched up because of trying to get to the top bolts on the mounts.

[ajmal21]

Originally Posted by bigsmile1130

Remove plastic covers from under engine. Use a floor jack with a block of wood place under oil pan, Remove bolts from both engine mounts, remove air filter housing. Jack up engine carefully just enough so mounts are loose then slide out the mounts slide in new mounts then tighten everything back up then you are done.

hi bigsmile

is #1 what you are talking about, i have the same care you have, and on idle the engine is shaking someone told me that the engine mount need to be looked at. or can you provid the parts number and where you got it.

[MercFiveHundred]

Yes, #1 looks like the engine mounnt. It is covered by a plastic/rubber shield when you look at it. #4 is the upper arm the mount that it's bolted to. I have 2 mounts that were good, but are used. If you want them let me know. They are about $200 each from the dealer, less than $100 each if you search online.

I went to another dealership yesterday, and i was told that the torque arm joint (the arm that goes from the knuckle to the front of the car) is bad and that is causing the noise. The mechanic was pretty sure it was it. Just another thing for any of you's to check. I cant check it till may in a feww weeks. Let me know if anyone can confirm this.

[ap10046]

Have similar sounds from my front right (RHD). Its actually a loud clunking when I start turning the wheel quickly..as in parking in a tight space.
Its now started from the left side as well.
The shop opened the suspension up and said all was well. Changed the upper/lower ball joints, a few bushings, but the noise is now back after 2 days. Its driving me crazy.
I am also getting the light rattling front sound over rough/uneven roads..