DIY Rear Brake Job 2006 E350
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DIY Rear Brake Job 2006 E350
Here is a step by step walk through on how to change the rear brake pads on a 2006 E350. Because this car does have SBC, see my other thread on the Front brakes for how to disconnect the SBC. Here is the link:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2006-e350.html
EDIT: There are some helpful posts with tips from other members in this thread. Please read the entire thread before using this as a guide.
So we are starting with with the SBC disconnected, the cover off of the Master Brake Cylinder, and the rear tire off. The side in this example also has the wear sensor. You can see the sensor plug in the second picture, and then unplugged in the third picture:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2006-e350.html
EDIT: There are some helpful posts with tips from other members in this thread. Please read the entire thread before using this as a guide.
So we are starting with with the SBC disconnected, the cover off of the Master Brake Cylinder, and the rear tire off. The side in this example also has the wear sensor. You can see the sensor plug in the second picture, and then unplugged in the third picture:
Last edited by revstriker; 01-15-2011 at 02:06 AM.
#2
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Remove the two bolts ( 13mm) in the rear which hold the caliper in place. You will need to get some leverage in order to break these loose. Once you remove these bolts, the caliper should just slide off of the rotor:
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I use zip ties to secure the caliper. I then use a screw driver to gently pry the pads out of the caliper. I then use the screw driver to remove the retainer spring.
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Next step is to re-set the pistons. I use a caliper tool for this (cheap one). I am also using an old backing plate. A C clamp would work just as well. I also hook up a line to the bleeder (11mm), and open it up while I compress the piston.
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Next step is prepping the pads for installation. The first pic is of the pads, the anti-squeel compount (I use one packet for each corner, or half a packet on each pad), and the new wear sensor. Install the sensor into the pad as shown.
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#10
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Once complete, top off the master cylinder if needed, and close the cover. Re-connect the SBC, and then get your keys and start the car.
If you need info on the front, or the SBC connect, disconnect, please see my thread on the front brakes:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2006-e350.html
If you need info on the front, or the SBC connect, disconnect, please see my thread on the front brakes:
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2006-e350.html
#13
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Interesting. I've always been told to lube anywhere where it comes in contact with another surface. I've done a bunch of brake jobs this way and have never had an issue. But that is something to think about.
#14
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It's really not that hard. The only weird thing is having to deal with the SBC, but this is really not that big of a deal.
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2007 E550 4-Matic, 2004 SL600
Good post, thanks. A couple points, first the lube, or anti-squeal stuff, if you don't put it where it meets the caliper piston, there is no sense putting it on, so you are correct in covering the back. I use Permatex Disc Brake Quiet that does the same and I cover the whole back of the brake pad. Also the pins the caliper slides on should be lubed, which you didn't do, mainly because of my next point. You removed the caliper by it's mount, not from it's mount, not sure if you did this on purpose or not. While this is easier if your replacing the rotor, you should still remove the caliper from it's mount to grease the slide pins. Removing just the caliper in this case would have left the mount caged over the rotor.
Also saw your post for the front, the same, those pins should get a little grease, not much, but a thin coating to allow the pads to move on them easier. Not as critical here though.
Here is the bolt you would have removed to take off just the caliper and leave the mount (red circle), there is another one down lower. There is a probably a Torx bolt or Allen bolt head recessed in there. Along with the big old spring you removed.....
Also saw your post for the front, the same, those pins should get a little grease, not much, but a thin coating to allow the pads to move on them easier. Not as critical here though.
Here is the bolt you would have removed to take off just the caliper and leave the mount (red circle), there is another one down lower. There is a probably a Torx bolt or Allen bolt head recessed in there. Along with the big old spring you removed.....
Last edited by mkhurley; 08-06-2010 at 08:02 AM.
#16
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Good post, thanks. A couple points, first the lube, or anti-squeal stuff, if you don't put it where it meets the caliper piston, there is no sense putting it on, so you are correct in covering the back. I use Permatex Disc Brake Quiet that does the same and I cover the whole back of the brake pad. Also the pins the caliper slides on should be lubed, which you didn't do, mainly because of my next point. You removed the caliper by it's mount, not from it's mount, not sure if you did this on purpose or not. While this is easier if your replacing the rotor, you should still remove the caliper from it's mount to grease the slide pins. Removing just the caliper in this case would have left the mount caged over the rotor.
Also saw your post for the front, the same, those pins should get a little grease, not much, but a thin coating to allow the pads to move on them easier. Not as critical here though.
Also saw your post for the front, the same, those pins should get a little grease, not much, but a thin coating to allow the pads to move on them easier. Not as critical here though.