S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

W220 S Class Maintenance costs over 1 year out of warranty - you may be shocked.

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Old 11-18-2010, 09:02 PM
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Mercedes S55 AMG
W220 S Class Maintenance costs over 1 year out of warranty - you may be shocked.

There is a general consensus that the W220 S class, especially some of the earlier models, are not reliable. In Fact, Mercedes reliability and quality took a downturn in public perception during the early 2000's, and only recently seems to have been rolling back.

What does this all mean? I hope to try and give some insight into this with some first hand experience, and factual price and mileage data for 1 full year and nearly 40,000 miles of driving during this year.

I have kept perfect records, including all dates, miles, and receipts for every maintenance done in the last year. In the beginning of this year, which we will start in November of 2009, I took the car in to a few Mercedes dealerships directly as I had not found a good independent to work on the car, but I did do so at the end of December of 2009 and thusly exclusively used the independent mechanic shop, whom seemed more capable than the Mercedes staff, and usually at least half or more the price in savings. So, for anyone who is out of warranty, I strongly recommend finding a reputable independent to work on your car.

I am not really a DIYer due to time constraints, but I do some of the minor stuff myself and would like to do the more complicated stuff as well. (I do the air filters, dust filters, charcoal filters, checking of all the service A/B stuff, etc.)

Here is my car information to start off:

W220 Mercedes-Benz S55 AMG, MY2001.

Current Mileage: 151,000
Mileage on November 16th, 2009: 113,585
  • All of the campaigns were taken care of, and the car had a warranty up to 100,000 miles.
  • I left some items out, like radar detectors, tinted windows, etc - as they are not service, but I left other items in
  • that are good for the quality of the car, like rubber mats, wiper blades, etc.
  • From December 29th 2009 and on, all service was done at an Indy and not the Mercedes Dealer. You can tell the prices went down.
  • There are a few items that are left out as they were before the year, such as work on the ABC suspension around 105,000 miles, Engine mounts at 85k, and various other things done - but for practical purposes I will start this one year ago from November of 2010.

Service: Mileage: Price: (Parts and labor total)

11/16/2009 Oil Change 113, 585 $93.59

11/20/2009 Cooling System Flush 114,500 $425.00

11/24/2009 Lower Ball Joints and Control Arm Bushings 114,758 $1,643

12/01/2009 1.) Wiper Blades
2.) Full 10 CD set of Navigation CD’s 116,000 $351.92

12/01/2009 1.) All Weather Rubber mats
2.) Interior cleaning kit 116,000 $158.40

12/02/2009 1.) AMG License Plate
2.) Touch up pen 116,000 $56.23

12/02/2009 Left front Wheel Hub Cap 116,000 $15.01

12/05/2009 1.) Rear Brake Pads and Rotors
2.) Brake Flush
3.) Rear Differential Service
4.) Removed Grommet
5.) Replaced Headlamp washer Nozzles 116,284 $1,252.14

12/08/2009 New Spark Plugs 116,529 $620.10

12/16/2009 1.) Engine Air Filter
2.) Mercedes Anti-Freeze 117,200 $64

12/18/2009 Oil Change 0W40 117/358 $125

12/23/2009 Motor/Transmission Mounts, Power Brake Hose 117,500 $1,820

12/29/2009 1.) Transmission Gasket, filter, connector
2.) New Serpentine Belt and Oil Cooler reseal 118,300 $489

1/04/2010 Cabin Dust Filter 118,700 $32

1/10/2010 4 Wheel Tire balance 119,120 $47

1/12/2010 2025 CR 3 v Batteries for Key Remote 119,200 $10.82

1/19/2010 Activated Charcoal Filters 119,580 $156.00

1/19/2010 Fuel Filter 119,540 $200.00

1/19/2010 Oil Change 0W40 Mobil 1 119,540 $119.00

2/01/2010 2 Pieces Driver’s seat plastic bottom seat trim 120,700 $85.00

2/25/2010 ABS Speed Sensor 123,776 $253.30

3/3/2010 Left front Side Marker bulb 123,950 $4.47

3/21/2010 Rear Tail light right / Marker Bulb 124, 900 $11.00

3/23/2010 Accelerator Pedal, Pedal Position sensor 124, 900 $282.40

3/26/2010 Touch up Paint 125,500 $21.73

4/08/2010 AC Charge Freon 127,000 $176.10

4/17/2010 Oil Change 5w40 128,500 $135

4/23/2010 Alternator 129,500 $832

4/24/2010 New Front Rim 129,700 $270

5/21/2010 4 Hankook Ventus Tires, Alignment, left Rim 132,700 $700

6/1/2010 Engine Air Filter 134,860 $60

6/2/2010 Fix Nail in right rear tire 135,000 $20

6/8/2010 Front and Rear brake pads 136,096 $400

6/10/2010 Oil Change Mobil 1 0w40 136,420 $143

7/09/2010 Toll truck 140,700 $70

7/14/2010 ABC Hose High pressure hydraulic line 140,700 $270

8/05/2010 1.) Cabin Dust Filter
2.) Wiper Blades 143,500 $53

9/18/2010 License Plate light, R 146,400 $5

10/08/2010 Oil Change Mobil1 0W40 147,658 $141

11/08/2010 1.) Inspection
2.) Engine and Transmission mounts
3.) AC compressor bracket fixed 150,421 $1,021

11/17/2010 4 Continental DWS Tires 151,000 $860


The grand total?


$13,492.21.


A warranty would have covered 2/3's of that, or around $9,000 - as some of the other stuff, totaling around $4,000, a normal warranty would not cover. (Stuff like oil changes, tires, brakes, etc)


That seems expensive, and that's not even accounting for gas (Around $7,000 this year - almost 40,000 miles, average over that period of 17MPG, and premium 93 gas at around $3.05 a gallon. Add another few thousand for insurance, and running costs quickly are in the mid $20,000s.

Now, it seems shocking when you add it up like that - but perhaps it isn't as cataclysmic as it looks. Most of it is just running costs that any car would have, albeit it an S55 is more expensive in a lot of normal items like tires, brakes, which tend to be more expensive than a C class, or other cheaper car, etc. And if you figure in a good warranty costs somewhere around $3,000 to $4,000, the disadvantage financially here, and the only thing that could be avoided, is around $6,000 a year which a warranty would have saved. Otherwise, even someone with a warranty would likely spend 75%-80% of what I spent figuring miles/gas/insurance are about the same.

I hope this information is useful to everyone, and they can see the real cost of owning a car as expensive as the S Class is, and was when new. So anytime someone thinks they are picking up a bargain in a cheaper used S class, they may actually be spending much more than a cheaper car. Big V8, tires, brakes, all equal more expenses versus a cheaper and smaller car, which will also most likely have better gas mileage and possibly cheaper insurance.

One last thing: If it isn't obvious, even with all of the maintenance, I absolutely adore this car. It is comfortable, safe, handles well, powerful, and still looks as good as it did when the W220 was fresh. So it is a car I have a passion for, and thus the sting of the cost pays off - because driving 40,000 miles a year, I have definitely enjoyed it.
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Old 11-18-2010, 11:33 PM
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wow thanks for the detailed list.

Ive had my 190,000 mile s430 for 2 years (but very low mileage driven by me).

Ive only had 1 oil change, and 1 set of wiper blades done.
Biggest expense was a transmission at 188,000 miles. I bought one off a MBW forum member parting theirs out for $500 and had it installed for $300.

So my 2 year operating costs are under $1000.
Old 11-18-2010, 11:53 PM
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I've had mine for 2 years and just broke 100k and since I do most of the work myself, cost is nowhere close to $13k for the year.

Those prices rondocap listed are dealership prices or "retail" prices.

I'd love to go down the list and write down what "actual" cost would be if it was done by a DIYer or by a good indy, but that list is too long.
Old 11-18-2010, 11:59 PM
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Arnee: The majority of those prices were from a good Indy, and only a few from the dealership in the beginning. Obviously doing it yourself would be much cheaper, as you only need to worry about the parts, but it is difficult for certain tasks and not everyone has the skill or time for it. The Indy was usually half or 1/3 the price of the dealership. Parts, plus fair labor.
Old 11-19-2010, 01:01 AM
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2000 Mercedes Benz S500 Designo
I have had my W220 for about 2 years now and haven't touched near that amount in repairs.

-Front Ball joints were around $500 (Old Indy)
-Transmission flush was around $200 (Old Indy)
-New Arnott Strut was around $450 (DIY)
-New control arm bushings were around $100 (DIY)
-New CPS was about $75 (DIY)
-Front rotors and pads were about $550 (New Indy, Akebono pads & Brembo rotors)
-I've probably spent $200 in misc stuff too

So that's about $2100 in two years and roughly 5,000 miles.

Of course this weekend she'll get a new set of tires, she needs a service "A" soon, and I'm going to have the dealership reset the TCM and update its firmware to try to fix a rough shift out of first when its cold. So I'll be looking at another grand here soon but still, I can't complain for an 11 year old car that is, "known to have problems".
Old 11-19-2010, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cameraman123
So that's about $2100 in two years and roughly 5,000 miles.
Im at $1000 in two years and about 3000 miles.

OP is $14,000 in 1 year and 40,000 miles.

Any way you look at it, these cars have a very high repair cost per mile.

10 cents per mile is a good repair cost /on the low side, but these figures are more like 30-50 cents per mile.
Old 11-19-2010, 03:52 AM
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jobless no income still can afford to own my s55..iono what this guy talking about..its only an 01 s55..
Old 11-19-2010, 09:59 AM
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Great post!

I've had my '04 S600 for a year and the costs of ownership haven't been bad at all. I bought it with 67,200 miles and am now around 73,500...I think!

In that time I've had:

-TPMS sensor replaced
-Driver's front seat heating element replaced
-Driver's door handle replaced
-Little fan sensor thing (!!) above the rear view mirror replaced
-Rear Parktronic sensor replaced
All above were covered by MB CPO so I don't know the exact cost. Very nice to have MB pick up the tab though

I've also had:
-Service B - $440
-Coolant flush - $190
-Some AC sensor I can't remember the name of - $280
-My 'Check Engine' light has come on in the last week (just after the "Fuel Filler Cap Open" warning showed up on the MFD) but haven't had time to take it to the dealer yet. I'm not overly concerned, I think it is crying wolf...

The above were done at the dealer and paid by myself. I have a Chrysler warranty which covered $80 of the sensor ($200 deductible). Although a lot of people go to the independent shops I don't mind paying the bit extra for the dealer to take care of my car.

As a 26yr old with clean driving record my insurance isn't bad at all, about $900 a year with Allstate. My first car back in the UK, a 1.4 litre European econobox, cost me double that for third party coverage only

So far I'm trying to figure out when this is all going to go horribly wrong because it's remarkably cheap to keep this (former) $130,000 car on the road!
Old 11-19-2010, 10:29 AM
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Boy, I must have one of the good ones, Thank God.

In my year and a half ownership I have done the following.

1. TPMS computer, warranty free
2. 2 TPMS wheel sensors, warranty free
3. Bleed the IC system, warranty free
4. Replaced both front rotors and pads, DIY $320
5. Oil change at stealer, $100 plus reset service A
6. Flush brake system, my request, stealer $100. This was after a fun day
7. oil change at stealer, $100, plus reset service B
8. Change cabin Air + Charcoal, DIY, $100
9. New rubber all the way around, Nitto 555's, $700
10. Some misc interior items, Stealer, warranty free.
11. Crank position sensor, warranty free

So for me, 15K miles later, $1420, or about $0.10 per mile

Did I ever mention that I LOVE this car
Old 11-19-2010, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rondocap
Arnee: The majority of those prices were from a good Indy, and only a few from the dealership in the beginning. Obviously doing it yourself would be much cheaper, as you only need to worry about the parts, but it is difficult for certain tasks and not everyone has the skill or time for it. The Indy was usually half or 1/3 the price of the dealership. Parts, plus fair labor.
I agree about not having time with the DIY.

My indy doesn't charge much when I don't have time either, but I've only taken mine in twice: valve cover gasket replacement and new plugs.

I don't think AMG vs non-AMG is a factor here either.

My CD changer has been acting up recently, however.
Old 11-19-2010, 01:16 PM
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2001 S430
nice post rondo, i actually considered purchasing an s-class for my first born to ride safe in as we make trips back and forth, nice big tank with millions of airbags, dual pane windows, etc.

so ive actually got a balance of raising my son and s-class - very interesting stuff
Old 11-19-2010, 02:09 PM
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A Mercedes obviously!
Originally Posted by classyS
nice post rondo, i actually considered purchasing an s-class for my first born to ride safe in as we make trips back and forth, nice big tank with millions of airbags, dual pane windows, etc.

so ive actually got a balance of raising my son and s-class - very interesting stuff
I'm prepared to be wrong but I thought the W140s had dual pane windows (assuming that's what we call 'double glazing' back in the UK) but the W220s do not.
Old 11-19-2010, 02:16 PM
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wow, thats a lot, but you drive your car a lot.

In the past year, I've spent $110 on the car.

(2) 4qt Mobil 1= $22.50 each
(1) 1qt m1= $6.50
(1) oil filter=$12.50
(16) spark plugs=$45
Old 11-19-2010, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Fraser
I'm prepared to be wrong but I thought the W140s had dual pane windows (assuming that's what we call 'double glazing' back in the UK) but the W220s do not.
correct, but the sound levels are similar inside from what I've found
Old 11-19-2010, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Fraser
I'm prepared to be wrong but I thought the W140s had dual pane windows (assuming that's what we call 'double glazing' back in the UK) but the W220s do not.
I thought W220 has dual pane also.
Old 11-19-2010, 04:01 PM
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We have dual pane glass.
Old 11-19-2010, 04:03 PM
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no...we don't
Old 11-19-2010, 04:23 PM
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dual pane glass, it is. thanks.
Old 11-19-2010, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Oliverk
no...we don't
The firefighter hammer cant smash the glass...Go ahead and try ! Or try to throw a brick, it won't shatter. It has to be thicker than the regular windows.

I was under impression W220 carried it over from W140. Either way its thick *** glass and wont shatter easily.
Old 11-19-2010, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Das Geld
The firefighter hammer cant smash the glass...Go ahead and try ! Or try to throw a brick, it won't shatter. It has to be thicker than the regular windows.

I was under impression W220 carried it over from W140. Either way its thick *** glass and wont shatter easily.
very possible that its thicker, better grade, whatever.

That said, if you roll it down and look at it, you'll see plain as day that its not two pane.
Old 11-19-2010, 05:56 PM
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So is that actually 2 pieces of glass separated by the divider?
Old 11-19-2010, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Das Geld

So is that actually 2 pieces of glass separated by the divider?
Yes, its two actual pieces of glass.

I believe also that there is a vaccum pump that sucks air from between the gap in order to avoid fogging. I know that the phaeton does this.
Old 11-19-2010, 07:08 PM
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I have a 2005, S500 with 62K on it now. I bought it 11/30/10, without warranty . For 1 year (11/30/2009) what i did to keep up with total expense for the year including gas. What i did is to use a credit card for everything and pay it off every month. At the end of the year I can get an itemized report, and I don't have to keep up with all the bills. This is not a daily driver, and i have put 11K on it for the year. In GA every time you start your car you automatically put 200 miles on the car.

To Date
2 new back tires=$340
4 new TPMS= $520 installed
Both types of Carbin filters (4)=$70 (DIY)
3 oil changes=$65 each (DIY). Changed when first bought and every 5K
Front park light bulbs=$12 (DIY)
K7N air filters=$80 (DIY)
I have not calculated gas as yet.
Old 11-23-2010, 09:08 PM
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Here's a poll of sorts for you guys: Having seen these facts on the maintenance, and considering I drive nearly 40k miles a year, do you guys think it would make financial and common sense to buy a cheaper car to daily drive? I was thinking something like a Honda Civic, which would be cheaper on gas, and more reliable and cheaper to fix.

I figure that I'll make up the purchase price of the Honda Civic (used of course) with a few months of driving it, and not spending on my S55. I'd use the S55 only for pleasure and occasional trips, probably down to 10k miles a year at most from 40k. That would keep it in better condition, too - I love the car and would not want to sell it. If I keep driving it at this rate, soon it'll be 200, 250, even 300k miles - and who knows how expensive that journey will be!

Thoughts?
Old 11-23-2010, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by rondocap
Here's a poll of sorts for you guys: Having seen these facts on the maintenance, and considering I drive nearly 40k miles a year, do you guys think it would make financial and common sense to buy a cheaper car to daily drive? I was thinking something like a Honda Civic, which would be cheaper on gas, and more reliable and cheaper to fix.

I figure that I'll make up the purchase price of the Honda Civic (used of course) with a few months of driving it, and not spending on my S55. I'd use the S55 only for pleasure and occasional trips, probably down to 10k miles a year at most from 40k. That would keep it in better condition, too - I love the car and would not want to sell it. If I keep driving it at this rate, soon it'll be 200, 250, even 300k miles - and who knows how expensive that journey will be!

Thoughts?

Do you have a family/kids?

I don't know about a Civic, but for me, I bought a 98 E430 as a DD. I've had it for about 3 years now and at 175k miles, it's still rock solid.

It's the same engine block (M113) and transmission as our S500 but there's no airmatic, there's no fiber optic stereo, no PSE pump for the doors, no COMAND, etc. It's relatively basic, easy, and cheap to maintain, even if I have to take it to my indy.

It's not a bad idea to have a daily driver, Civic or whatever else. At 40k miles a year, if you really love your S55 and are going to keep it for awhile, I'd say do it.

My wife uses the X5 for grocery stuff, local driving.

We use our S500 for family trips mostly, but the X5 for family trips if I know it will rain or am unfamiliar with the roads.

My E430 maintenance and repairs is cheaper than the S500. Oil changes, filters, etc are the same; however, in terms of repairs, like I mentioned, it doesn't have the other "problematic" S500 "features," hence it's cheaper. i.e. I just changed all four shocks on the E430 myself about 3 weekends ago for $350 and three hours with Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks.


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