ESTJ

Okay, I’m considering a DIY transmission fluid and filter change on my 2001 E55 AMG, VIN number WDBJF74JX1B261347.

I have studied the DIY post:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1334827-photo-diy-722-6x-transmission-fluid.html

Looks fairly straight forward, but I have a couple of questions maybe some of you seasoned vets can answer before I take on this job.

1. Looking to use Fuchs Titan ATF 3353, price $11.81/Liter.

a. Is there a better alternative?

b. Since the spec says 9.11 liters and as far as I can tell you cannot drain the full amount, how many liters should I buy?

2. The model in the link above had its fill tube located in a different area than mine. Mine is located directly in the center behind the air filter housing.

a. Does this location impact the dipstick/tool that I should buy or is this one the right one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-transmission-dipstick-722-6-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f063e0d1dQQitemZ27068 7669533QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

3. Fluid Level Reading

a. Do you really have to measure the fluid temperature exactly at 80C or is this just the normal operating temperature? In other words if I just take the car for a spin 15/20 min drive will it not be close enough to 80C to make a fairly accurate measurement? (like shown in the DIY post, it read exactly 80C)

4. Draining Fluid

a. Is there anyway to maximize the amount of fluid that will drain? warm or cold, overnight drain or not?

b. How to drain torque converter on this model?

ruBENZ

In reference to 4. Draining Fluid b. How to drain torque converter on this model? And, 1. Looking to use Fuchs Titan ATF 3353, price $11.81/Liter. b. Since the spec says 9.11 liters and as far as I can tell you cannot drain the full amount, how many liters should I buy?

If my memory serves me correct, to achieve optimum drainage of a torque converter there must be a torque converter drain plug. I believe a W210 E55 built after Aug 99 does not have a torque converter drain plug. Conversely, a W210 E55 built in 1998, 1999, and 2000 built through Jul 99 does have a torque converter drain plug. Hence, a year 2001 can not be completely drained as the torque converter will hold a least 2.5 liters. And, leaving you 6.6 liters or 7 quarts to replace. Hope this helps.

ESTJ

[quote=ruBENZ; And, leaving you 6.6 liters or 7 quarts to replace. Hope this helps. [/quote]


Helps a lot, thanks!

I'm thinking about draining-filling-running-draining/changing filter and gasket and refilling so the cost mounts up. BTW is this a good idea or a waste of money?

Shadow5501

Not sure you can get the 3353 fluid any longer. The Fuchs Titan 4134 is the aftermarket version for the MB 7-speed automatic and is compatible with the 722.6 in your car. It is preferred.

Your car does not have a torque converter drain. If you want to change all the fluid, you can do so by disconnecting the transmission cooler line at the radiator (driver's side) and directing it into a drain pan. Start the car and let it idle until all fluid has been pumped out. (Shut off engine immediately when the fluid stops.) Now drop the transmission pan, change the filter, etc. Add 4 liters of fresh fluid. Start car and watch additional old fluid run into catch pan. When fluid changes to new, bright red color, shut of engine - quickly! Reassemble transmission cooler line. Add additional fluid as needed to full level.

This method uses an additional liter or two, so buy extra. But it is thorough, and less work than performing multiple partial changes.

I've had good luck just letting the car idle up to operating temperature and getting the trans fluid warmed in that manner.

The transmission shift character may feel different and/or strange after changing. Don't worry, it will shortly adapt to the friction and viscosity characteristics of the fresh fluid.

ruBENZ

I agree with the drain-run-drain method. Having changed the transmission fluid on a previous vehicle, I would opt to have an independent shop do it. The DIY method is time consuming, messy, and difficult to achieve the precise amount of fill up. The cost should be in the $200 to $225 range. You'll easily spend half of that on the fluid and parts. And, for the remaining $100 or so, I would have someone else deal with the mess. Good luck.

desired_speeds

let me tell you right now. Shop secret: 4 bottles exact for pan drop and filter change. I also recommend changing the transmission connector while you're under there.

Do it once now, and one more time in 6 months. It'll be good enough. Just follow up with it every 30-40k miles after that.

saintz

Parts.com or Autohausaz.com will have the cheapest fluid. Sometimes they have MB for less than the cost of Fuchs.

That dipstick is the correct one.

Drain, drop the pan, let it sit for an hour to drip, change the filter and refill. You'll need 4 to 5 bottles. Refill with 4 bottles, drive for 15 minutes, then check the dipstick. Top off if needed. If it's shifting smooth, you're done. If it's shifting rough, do another drain/fill.

Using an IR thermometer is overkill. I was quoted over $400 from an independent to do the job, so you can save a lot. It's a pretty easy DIY. I've done it several times, and each time it gets easier.

A Mityvac oil extractor is worth it, too.

Schweinhund

I flushed mine with the 722.14 spec fluid (latest Merc standard as of later last year). My indie dropped the pan, changed the filter (OEM), then buttoned it up. He then disconnected the trans cooler line at the bottom and drained that. Filled it, ran it and drained the cooler again. Did this two more times. Used 9 liters.

Although I have not read it being done, what many do on other cars is disconnect the lower cooler line, run a clear hose out to a bucket and run the car until the output tube sputters and then shut down.

They fill with the same quantity, then do it again until the output become new fluid. This gets the most stuff out

What I don't know yet is if it can and should be done on this trans.

ESTJ

Thanks for all the input guys. Have decided to tackle this job rather than trust anyone with my car. Nobody does it better and more carefully than me.

Decided to go with Autohausaz.com as follows:

0019894503
Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments; Automatic Transmission Fluid, Titan 4134; 1 Liter
$13.72 9 liters $124.02

1402700091 Transmission Filler Tube; Filler Cap
$3.22

1409910055 Transmission Filler Tube; Lock Pin for Filler Cap; Red Plastic
$1.22

1402700098 Transmission Filter Kit
$15.75

1402710060 Transmission Gasket/Bushing/O-Ring; A/T Drain Plug Seal Washer; 10x20x1mm
$1.32


Probably didn't need some of this stuff but might as well have it on-hand! Ordered the dipstick/tool from site above.

Still haven't decided on the method for draining/changing. Will probably make that decision once I see the color of the fluid that I drain. Would prefer to go all the way since it is the newer fluid that I am adding, although I've been told it is okay to mix.

Decided to share with everyone my favorite products for care care. You cannot buy better products anywhere: www.surfcitygarage.com

ESTJ

[quote=Shadow5501;4463450]
Your car does not have a torque converter drain. If you want to change all the fluid, you can do so by disconnecting the transmission cooler line at the radiator (driver's side) and directing it into a drain pan. Start the car and let it idle until all fluid has been pumped out. (Shut off engine immediately when the fluid stops.) Now drop the transmission pan, change the filter, etc. Add 4 liters of fresh fluid. Start car and watch additional old fluid run into catch pan. When fluid changes to new, bright red color, shut of engine - quickly! Reassemble transmission cooler line. Add additional fluid as needed to full level. quote]

Okay, got the job done last night and it was not all that bad, certainly within the ability of most of us. I basically used the method above although slightly modified.

1. Start by breaking the line, not on the driver's side, but on the passenger's side. The passenger's side is the return line to the transmission and so all fluid in the radiator will be flushed this way. A small amount will leak out so be prepared to catch it in a container.

2. Next, remove the drain plug and be prepared to catch about five to six quarts of fluid. When draining is complete, replace the drain plug with a new washer installed and torque to proper torque.

3. Now loosen and remove the torx screw that holds the bracket for the oxygen sensor connectors. You don’t need to remove the bracket but you will need to remove that screw. Now snap out the oxygen sensor connectors and carefully place them outside the bracket.

4. Time to remove the pan. Loosen all bolts, but just remove the four bolts towards the rear of the car, this will allow the pan to just drop in the rear and will make catching the remaining fluid in the pan much easier. Now remove the remaining bolts and clamps noting that the front one on the driver’s side is unique, this is the one that supports the oxygen sensor bracket. Remove it before you remove the last one. Now thoroughly wipe clean the surface of the transmission where your new seal mates.

5. Time to replace the filter. Easy enough! Pull straight down and it pops right out, position the new one and push straight up till you hear a click. A small guide is on the other end make sure it finds its mating home.

6. Clean the pan thoroughly. Lot of left over goop here so make sure it is clean. I used paper towels and rags, then took it to the deepsink and washed it with soap and water. Thoroughly rinse and dry. Inspect for damage that might affect the seal, place. Put the seal in place and return to the installation.

7. Install the pan. Place the unique driver’s side clamp in place first. Now “hand start” all of the other bolts making sure that the clamps are placed as they should be with the groove on the pan lip. Since the torque on the pan bolts is not great, I used a little Blue Loctite thread lock on the bolts. Take your time here and slowly tighten these bolts in a crossing pattern first a corner then the opposite corner, then another corner and its opposite corner, then the middle and its opposite. Continue doing this pattern, slowly over and over again until you reach the proper torque. You don’t really need a torque wrench, but it would be good to have one. Just make sure you don’t make this really tight, or your seal will leak. Replace the torx screw that holds the oxygen sensor connectors bracket and clip the connectors back in place.

8. Remove the locking key on the filler pipe by breaking the tab and using a small straight slot screwdriver to push the lock out. Now pull up on the cap. Use a clean funnel and slowly pour four to five quarts of new fluid.

9. Here’s where you need your buddy. Place a container capable of holding at least four quarts of fluid by the broken line from step 1. The fluid will come out of the flexible line so you can direct the fluid into your container very easily. Have your buddy start the car and watch the fluid coming out of the line. When it turns to the brighter red color have your friend turn off the engine. This should only take about a minute or so and you should have caught about two to three quarts of dirty fluid from your torque converter and radiator lines. Reconnect the lines, gudentite.

10. Okay, you’re almost done. Add another two to three quarts of fresh fluid. Start the engine and cycle through the gears (with your foot on the brake of course) now place the transmission in Park and with the engine running, check your dipstick for the level at 25C. Monitor your engine temperature on your console, when it reaches 80C you are ready to make your final measurement with the dipstick, with the transmission in PARK make your dipstick reading. The reading should be in between the 80C lines. Add fluid as necessary, do it gradually and slowly, don’t overfill.

11. Replace the filler cap and a new locking pin and you’re done.

My car has about 30,000 miles and is a 2001. It was in desperate need of this service as the seal had begun to leak, missing about a quart and half of fluid and the fluid was indeed dirty and the pan had goop that needed to get out of that transmission. I don’t think anyone should go beyond 40K without this service.

Hope my experience helps someone in the future.

Shadow5501

[quote=ESTJ;4486345

Snipped for brevity...

My car has about 30,000 miles and is a 2001. It was in desperate need of this service as the seal had begun to leak, missing about a quart and half of fluid and the fluid was indeed dirty and the pan had goop that needed to get out of that transmission. I don’t think anyone should go beyond 40K without this service.

Hope my experience helps someone in the future.[/quote]

You are more meticulous than am I!

Interesting that you had debris in the trans pan. I did this service on my '01 E320 when it had about 70K miles on the clock. (It was way past 40K when MB first decided that was the service interval...) At that mileage the pan was spotless - literally the cleanest I've ever seen. I've had many older MBs and have done the 30K miles transmission service required by the 722.3/4 countless times. Not sure it means anything - maybe just that an E55 doesn't get driven like grandma?

ESTJ

[quote=Shadow5501;4486550]You are more meticulous than am I!

Interesting that you had debris in the trans pan. quote]

Wouldn't really classify it as debris, more like heavy oil laden with the fine stuff from the wear of a transmission; anyway not something you want to leave in the transmission.

I don't think this car had been driven hard, more age than anything.

The transmission is fine, there wasn't any perceivable problem before (other than the leaky seal), so really no perceivable change in performance after the service.

ESTJ

Monitoring my transmission fluid exchange service, I noticed that if the car sat for days there was a small puddle of transmission fluid on the garage floor. Not Good

Looking for the cause I discovered that the seal of the gasket is not controlled by the torque of the pan bolts but rather by the height of the standoffs that are used in conjuction with the pan bolts.

To complete the seal of the pan, I had to remove each standoff individually and file some of the height away then reinstall and move to the next one.

How much to remove? Suffice it to say you have to remove enough to stop the leak, start small and work until it stops.

MB could have come up with a better design, thier design must require strict adherence to the thickness of the Rubber seal and since I was using an aftermarket seal, who knows if it is in spec.

ESTJ

Okay the pan is sealed good. But now a leak appears to be coming from the transmission plug adapter.

Found the part on mbpartswarehouse:



Looks like you could just replace the seals but the part isn't that expensive.

Now I just need to figure out how to replace it!

ESTJ

Here's the MB take on the problem!

saintz

Yeah, just swap the plug and then top off the fluid, about 1/2 quart will leak out.

ESTJ

Easy enough, messy since I didn't do it when I changed the fluid. My advice, if it hasn't been changed, then do it now. Talking to the MB dealer mechanic, MB went through several iterations of the seals on this device until they got it right. Mine had the OEM red seals which were pure garbage. There also was a white seal, also stunk!

One word of advice, do not overtorque the bolt in the middle of the adapter. Doing so will result in one expensive repair that you want to avoid. Good and snug is all you need.

Anatoly

I need to do this to my 01 E55 with 77k on it. Probably going to do it this or next weekend.

ESTJ

Good Luck with the job! I tried to put as much info as I could on this post to make it easy to accomplish.

One thing you may want to do is, first before draining anything, use your dipstick tool to measure how much fluid you currently have in the system. Measure when you first start the car (ie. 25C) and after your TEMP gage reads 80C. This will give you an idea of how well your seals have been holding up. If it is low then maybe you want to go ahead and replace the plug adapter.

Let me know if you need any friendly advice.

desired_speeds

I'd really recommend doing the electrical connector sea while doing the trans servicel. I mean, it's only like $17 for an OEM part. it really can't get any cheaper than that.

Anatoly

So actually took it to my friends shop, they work on MB and BMW he quoted me $200 for the whole job, including parts / filters / oil / and the plug. They also do the full flush by disconnecting the cooling lines and draining all the old fluid out. Also, give me warranty ... so I decided to just go with it.

saintz

Make sure they don't use pressure to refill the system. It's fine if they disconnect the line, so long as they don't spray stuff back in under high pressure.

That's a really cheap price, all in.

ctravis595

this answer confuses me. i ordered a used 722.636 transmission pulled from a 2000 e55 amg. i'm trying to figure out how much transmission fluid i should order but i keep finding conflicting advice as to whether or not i can fully drain this particular transmission (drain plug)

if anyone who knows what really came in a "00 e55 amg" can chime in that would be awesome! i'm also ordering a tranny adapter plug adapter to avoid the whole tranny fluid leakage problem

Neanicu888

It takes about 9 US quarts TOGETHER with the torque converter! This part is very important because the torque converter takes quite a little bit of fluid.
If both the torque converter and tranny are empty,I'd refill about 8 US quarts,run it thru gears off ground,bring the engine to operating temperature and check the level. Add if necessary...

indukuriv

[QUOTE=ESTJ;4486345]