- 10 С Fan mode question...
04-18-2007, 10:59 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
- 10 С Fan mode question...
Many of US including ME have done -10C mode...Programmed our Fan to start working earlier...
My temps are usslually btw 80-90...As a result of it the FAN is working very often cause E55 engine reach 90c very easy...Even in winter times sometimes the fan is working...and it cold outisde...
So the question arises if it works often while you drive the does it robs POWER, cuase it takes the power from generator more often ???
If it wouldnt start working at 90c but at 100c, then less energy would be taken away at 90c ???
What do you think ???
may be this mod is wrong...
My temps are usslually btw 80-90...As a result of it the FAN is working very often cause E55 engine reach 90c very easy...Even in winter times sometimes the fan is working...and it cold outisde...
So the question arises if it works often while you drive the does it robs POWER, cuase it takes the power from generator more often ???
If it wouldnt start working at 90c but at 100c, then less energy would be taken away at 90c ???
What do you think ???
may be this mod is wrong...
04-19-2007, 10:27 AM
#6
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2003 E55 AMG
Compared to the 80hp or 90hp in parasitic loss from spinning the S/C, I wouldn't worry too much about the electrical drain the fan causes when it kicks in.
Most of the electrical drain is on initial startup of the fan. Once it is spinning it does not tax the battery that much. Since there is a relay inline with the fan, the initial startup doesnt shock the battery anyways... nothing to worry about.. Let it cool your engine..
When someone says "the cooler the engine the better" there is a bit of a caveat to that... As long as the engine coolant temp is MINIMUM 80C and higher you are fine. If you do something to dip the temp below 80C you will put the ECU into COLD START MODE and it will dump more fuel than necessary.. In essence your car will constantly be running in COLD START mode. That's the only thing you have to concern yourself with.
Also, don't pay any attention to the temp display in the instrument cluster. It is nowhere near accurate. If you want an accurate coolant temp reading, do this:
1) Hit the AC OFF button and hold it for 5 sec.. it will put you into a "hidden menu".. You will see the TEMP display change. It will read something like "00" and then another set of numbers on the right side.
2) Hit the Driver's side temp increase button (the one with the RED arrow) 5 times until the display reads "06".. the numbers shown to the right will be the EXACT coolant temp in your car.
This is how I monitor coolant temp in my car.
Most of the electrical drain is on initial startup of the fan. Once it is spinning it does not tax the battery that much. Since there is a relay inline with the fan, the initial startup doesnt shock the battery anyways... nothing to worry about.. Let it cool your engine..
When someone says "the cooler the engine the better" there is a bit of a caveat to that... As long as the engine coolant temp is MINIMUM 80C and higher you are fine. If you do something to dip the temp below 80C you will put the ECU into COLD START MODE and it will dump more fuel than necessary.. In essence your car will constantly be running in COLD START mode. That's the only thing you have to concern yourself with.
Also, don't pay any attention to the temp display in the instrument cluster. It is nowhere near accurate. If you want an accurate coolant temp reading, do this:
1) Hit the AC OFF button and hold it for 5 sec.. it will put you into a "hidden menu".. You will see the TEMP display change. It will read something like "00" and then another set of numbers on the right side.
2) Hit the Driver's side temp increase button (the one with the RED arrow) 5 times until the display reads "06".. the numbers shown to the right will be the EXACT coolant temp in your car.
This is how I monitor coolant temp in my car.
04-19-2007, 10:37 AM
#7
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E55
Compared to the 80hp or 90hp in parasitic loss from spinning the S/C, I wouldn't worry too much about the electrical drain the fan causes when it kicks in.
Most of the electrical drain is on initial startup of the fan. Once it is spinning it does not tax the battery that much. Since there is a relay inline with the fan, the initial startup doesnt shock the battery anyways... nothing to worry about.. Let it cool your engine..
When someone says "the cooler the engine the better" there is a bit of a caveat to that... As long as the engine coolant temp is MINIMUM 80C and higher you are fine. If you do something to dip the temp below 80C you will put the ECU into COLD START MODE and it will dump more fuel than necessary.. In essence your car will constantly be running in COLD START mode. That's the only thing you have to concern yourself with.
Also, don't pay any attention to the temp display in the instrument cluster. It is nowhere near accurate. If you want an accurate coolant temp reading, do this:
1) Hit the AC OFF button and hold it for 5 sec.. it will put you into a "hidden menu".. You will see the TEMP display change. It will read something like "00" and then another set of numbers on the right side.
2) Hit the Driver's side temp increase button (the one with the RED arrow) 5 times until the display reads "06".. the numbers shown to the right will be the EXACT coolant temp in your car.
This is how I monitor coolant temp in my car.
Most of the electrical drain is on initial startup of the fan. Once it is spinning it does not tax the battery that much. Since there is a relay inline with the fan, the initial startup doesnt shock the battery anyways... nothing to worry about.. Let it cool your engine..
When someone says "the cooler the engine the better" there is a bit of a caveat to that... As long as the engine coolant temp is MINIMUM 80C and higher you are fine. If you do something to dip the temp below 80C you will put the ECU into COLD START MODE and it will dump more fuel than necessary.. In essence your car will constantly be running in COLD START mode. That's the only thing you have to concern yourself with.
Also, don't pay any attention to the temp display in the instrument cluster. It is nowhere near accurate. If you want an accurate coolant temp reading, do this:
1) Hit the AC OFF button and hold it for 5 sec.. it will put you into a "hidden menu".. You will see the TEMP display change. It will read something like "00" and then another set of numbers on the right side.
2) Hit the Driver's side temp increase button (the one with the RED arrow) 5 times until the display reads "06".. the numbers shown to the right will be the EXACT coolant temp in your car.
This is how I monitor coolant temp in my car.
Trending Topics
04-19-2007, 11:24 AM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ght=rest+codes
01 In-car temperature sensor.
02 Outside temperature sensor.
03 Heater core temp, left.
04 Heater core temp, right.
05 Evaporator temperature sensor.
06 Engine coolant temperature.
07 Regrigerant pressure in bar (e.g. '4' is 4 bar).
08 Refrigerant temperature.
09 Not used.
10 Heater blower control voltage (normal 08-6.0, meaning .8 to 6 volts).
11 Emissions sensor voltage (to detect atmospheric gases and recirculate interior air).
12 Sun sensor voltage (to shift airflow in car).
20 Control current for auxilliary fan (electric fan on radiator, given in milliamps or mA).
21 Engine speed (x100).
22 Road speed (km/h or mph depending on installation).
23 Battery voltage at terminal 58d (as a percentage of total voltage, e.g. 99.0 = 99%).
24 Battery voltage (e.g. 12.8 = 12.8V).
40 Climate control software version.
41 Climate control hardware version.
04-20-2007, 10:17 AM
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Compared to the 80hp or 90hp in parasitic loss from spinning the S/C, I wouldn't worry too much about the electrical drain the fan causes when it kicks in.
Most of the electrical drain is on initial startup of the fan. Once it is spinning it does not tax the battery that much. Since there is a relay inline with the fan, the initial startup doesnt shock the battery anyways... nothing to worry about.. Let it cool your engine..
When someone says "the cooler the engine the better" there is a bit of a caveat to that... As long as the engine coolant temp is MINIMUM 80C and higher you are fine. If you do something to dip the temp below 80C you will put the ECU into COLD START MODE and it will dump more fuel than necessary.. In essence your car will constantly be running in COLD START mode. That's the only thing you have to concern yourself with.
Also, don't pay any attention to the temp display in the instrument cluster. It is nowhere near accurate. If you want an accurate coolant temp reading, do this:
1) Hit the AC OFF button and hold it for 5 sec.. it will put you into a "hidden menu".. You will see the TEMP display change. It will read something like "00" and then another set of numbers on the right side.
2) Hit the Driver's side temp increase button (the one with the RED arrow) 5 times until the display reads "06".. the numbers shown to the right will be the EXACT coolant temp in your car.
This is how I monitor coolant temp in my car.
Most of the electrical drain is on initial startup of the fan. Once it is spinning it does not tax the battery that much. Since there is a relay inline with the fan, the initial startup doesnt shock the battery anyways... nothing to worry about.. Let it cool your engine..
When someone says "the cooler the engine the better" there is a bit of a caveat to that... As long as the engine coolant temp is MINIMUM 80C and higher you are fine. If you do something to dip the temp below 80C you will put the ECU into COLD START MODE and it will dump more fuel than necessary.. In essence your car will constantly be running in COLD START mode. That's the only thing you have to concern yourself with.
Also, don't pay any attention to the temp display in the instrument cluster. It is nowhere near accurate. If you want an accurate coolant temp reading, do this:
1) Hit the AC OFF button and hold it for 5 sec.. it will put you into a "hidden menu".. You will see the TEMP display change. It will read something like "00" and then another set of numbers on the right side.
2) Hit the Driver's side temp increase button (the one with the RED arrow) 5 times until the display reads "06".. the numbers shown to the right will be the EXACT coolant temp in your car.
This is how I monitor coolant temp in my car.
Thanks Victor...so I those temps are ussually higher or lower the on the temp display ???
