Rear reservoir project. 9 gal :)

[lowprofile]

Looks good Prodigy! Realize you will have no excuses about traction with that in your trunk, lol.

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[moparrbust]

Cool, I wish I had room for that big of a tank. I have a stupid hump in the middl of my floor for my muffler and can only fit a 2.5 gallon tank.

[stevebez]

So where in the trunk is the best spot to open up for the piping? It seems the area close to the battery overflow pipe.

I also think mounting the hoses above / inside the exhaust heat shield in the prop shaft area looks the least insconspicious ... but the exhaust heat

Running the pipes down the sides etc could catch on something and then I have a real problem. As it is now the car catches as I exit my drive way... so dont want to dislodge the pipes. Need to have another look have gone for 5/8" tubing. The intercooler inlet and outlets are 15mm so dont see the point of going larger.

Plastic 39L tank (10.3 gallons), CM90 now rear mounted. Remote mounting the pump allows me to fit the OEM pump upfront if I need a secondary pump. Also allows me to remove the tank, blank off the pipe end (or loop it around) and the car will still run with the OEM pump. The CM90 pump will now have full bite at the coolant with a large feed opening. The install upfront was a bit to tight and some hoses were pinching - although never had any issues. Moving the pump weight to the rear (5lb) I suppose helps a touch too.

The tank is plastic (cost and weight reasons) and I figured if its too large / heavy I can just fill is with large ploystyrene balls to take up some volume. So when I dyno etc the poly comes out and bingo I have loads of coolant. Taking the spare wheel out saves me about 10kg (22lb) and the tank weighs about 43kg (95lb) when full. So net gain of 33kg (73lb) is quite a alot . So I need to play with the coolant volume here. Like a large suitcase hanging in the trunk all the time.

I have also now split the cooling circuit. One issue that has not come up on splitting the circuit is line pressure. Running the intercooler with the engine radiator as per oem generates significantly more pressure in the lines etc. Splitting the circuit removes this from the intercooler circuit and was wondering if this would have any effect on cooling ability good or bad...? Can water absorb more heat when under pressure like the engine coolant circuit than when it is not? Anyone have data as to how hot the intercooler coolant gets, per different fill volumes, with a rear mount reservoir?

Sorry dont want to hijack but I am doing the same install right now and thought we could share info?

[prodigymb]

the finished Seamless Motorsports custom midsection exhaust sounds amazing.
Evosport headers -> catless Seamless Motorsports with X pipe -> Stock mufflers

[V12Godspeed]

Originally Posted by prodigymb

the finished Seamless Motorsports custom midsection exhaust sounds amazing.
Evosport headers -> catless Seamless Motorsports with X pipe -> Stock mufflers

PICS, PICS, PICS!!!! I can't see...LOL

[V12Godspeed]

Originally Posted by Thericker

Icing coolant/water isn't the only + to this mod, the overall added capacity of total coolant volume is indeed aiding in your stock IC's & Heat Exchangers efficiency, the added 3/4" hose transferring coolant from Reservoir to HE is acting like a radiator as well, cooling the liquid a bit while transferred the 30 odd feet back n' forth.

Here's a peek @ my 5.5'er Dealership installed in 5 hrs

Damn Sean, those are some diesel fore arms...LOL...What u curling man? Hahaha

[prodigymb]

Originally Posted by V12Godspeed

PICS, PICS, PICS!!!! I can't see...LOL

I'm a bum I didn't take any photos. I will this saturday when I install my tank

Speaking of tank. Going to Autozone after work to pick up 38ft of Goodyear 3/4" heater hose.

[stevebez]

I know it may seem trivial but routing the hoses is no joke. I have found a decent one up through the right front wheel arch then under the skid panels along the right rear brake line and then unfortunately up past the rear exhaust and connect to the boot connections. No alternative to going past the exhaust section. Btw I am using 5/8ths pipe and it pretty rough finding room for two runs. Using the wheel arch gets the pipes out if the engine bay asap.

If anyone has a better route please let me know as I am 80% there ... I just want the runs to be as inconspicuous as possible - and reliable!!!

[Thericker]

Originally Posted by V12Godspeed

Damn Sean, those are some diesel fore arms...LOL...What u curling man? Hahaha

Hehe Jody, I'm back on my weight gain faze, up to nearly 220 lbs body weight again between cars, bodybuilding is a great hobby

[Thericker]

Originally Posted by stevebez

I know it may seem trivial but routing the hoses is no joke. I have found a decent one up through the right front wheel arch then under the skid panels along the right rear brake line and then unfortunately up past the rear exhaust and connect to the boot connections. No alternative to going past the exhaust section. Btw I am using 5/8ths pipe and it pretty rough finding room for two runs. Using the wheel arch gets the pipes out if the engine bay asap.

If anyone has a better route please let me know as I am 80% there ... I just want the runs to be as inconspicuous as possible - and reliable!!!

Word! The MB tech & I were under the lift & tried multiple paths for routing coolant lines, sounds like you found the same path we did, be certain to affix multiple zip-ties where ever possible

[stevebez]

Man what a PITA as it is routing the hoses.... nearly done ... just the fornt wheel arch to go and I am there mbe done tomorrow some time.... Probably one of the most annoying mods I have done. No matter what you do it looks a little "after-market"....

Anyhow ... prodigymb let me know how you got on... I had 10m of hose and I think I had JUST enough!

[prodigymb]

so this is finally done. works great with one CM30 pump. and i noticed a drop in IAT temps from my logs. the install was definetly a *****. i did not take many photos because i forgot my camera....i will take some of the finished setup...

[stevebez]

Originally Posted by prodigymb

the install was definetly a *****.

Amen! Also done and only have pics of finished story... Actually still have to put front wheel arch liners back and test drive tomorrow....

Btw how much fluid does the engine take after this split circuit? I have quite z bit of coolant left over from the front rads...

[prodigymb]

Originally Posted by stevebez

Amen! Also done and only have pics of finished story... Actually still have to put front wheel arch liners back and test drive tomorrow....

Btw how much fluid does the engine take after this split circuit? I have quite z bit of coolant left over from the front rads...

i didnt fully drain the system, so i am not sure how much will be needed. i had to add about 1.5 gallons afterwards.

[MarkoCL65]

Originally Posted by Thericker

Icing coolant/water isn't the only + to this mod, the overall added capacity of total coolant volume is indeed aiding in your stock IC's & Heat Exchangers efficiency, the added 3/4" hose transferring coolant from Reservoir to HE is acting like a radiator as well, cooling the liquid a bit while transferred the 30 odd feet back n' forth.

Here's a peek @ my 5.5'er Dealership installed in 5 hrs

The car will limp out in heavy traffic on hot days from excessive IAT's with a 9 gal system unless you have ice all the time or are running a chiller. That is just too much volume for a heat exchanger alone to cool. Ask me how I know.

[stevebez]

MarkoCL65

Is the blower not disengaged in traffic so your boost is zero and IAT's normal? If I understand you correctly, you need a scenario where you have boost but not moving ... I can't think of a scenario like that except a Dyno?

The only time you generate serious heat is if your foot is planted. If your foot is planted you are flying & cooling.

What you are saying is quite interesting - perhaps in terms of a split vs common circuit.

Is your circuit split?

[MarkoCL65]

Originally Posted by stevebez

MarkoCL65

Is the blower not disengaged in traffic so your boost is zero and IAT's normal? If I understand you correctly, you need a scenario where you have boost but not moving ... I can't think of a scenario like that except a Dyno?

The only time you generate serious heat is if your foot is planted. If your foot is planted you are flying & cooling.

What you are saying is quite interesting - perhaps in terms of a split vs common circuit.

Is your circuit split?

I don't think you understand me correctly. Boost is not necessary for excessive IAT's to prevent boost from being available if you decide to push the fun pedal. High intake air temps tell the ecu to disable boost. My circuit is split. I am running a CM 90 with 7 gal tank. When it's full, the car will see IAT's in the 170's after 25 min in traffic on an 80 degree day. I run it with 4 gallons of water and there is no problem. Marcin made a baffle inside to keep the water from sloshing around too much.

[stevebez]

Hmm OK. I still need to try and get my head around this one...

The volume of water should not make any difference to me (within reason). Heat is generated by the intercooler, absorbed by the water, transported to the heat exchanger/s and cooled. This is repeated over and over. The fluid is simply the transport system. If heat builds up over time it means more heat is added than is removed. The quantity of fluid should not matter - within reason. If the water tank was limitless there would be no problem. You would always have cool water and a cool intercooler. If you only had one quart of water - the transport system would be to clogged up. Bit like turning a 5 lane freeway into a single lane. The system efficiency dies.

I dont understand why, in between these two extremes, the logic changes. Perhaps the efficiency of heat absorbsion and dissapation is dependant on the volume of fluid present?

Flow speed is not a problem as the fluid flow is the same if you have 5gal, 7 or 9 as you have one pump.

Anyone with a fluid dynamics / thermo dynamics background to help me understand this one?

[lowprofile]

If you are seeing IAT's of 170 then you are not getting any circulation. I would try to figure out what is causing the lack of flow when your tank is full.
Steve, you are ok.

[Thericker]

Originally Posted by MarkoCL65

I don't think you understand me correctly. Boost is not necessary for excessive IAT's to prevent boost from being available if you decide to push the fun pedal. High intake air temps tell the ecu to disable boost. My circuit is split. I am running a CM 90 with 7 gal tank. When it's full, the car will see IAT's in the 170's after 25 min in traffic on an 80 degree day. I run it with 4 gallons of water and there is no problem. Marcin made a baffle inside to keep the water from sloshing around too much.

I run 5.5 gallon full 98% of time, it's wired to 2ndary CM30 in trunk set to run continuously, I haven't sat in much traffic since install but ran her with & w/out Ice & perf increase is notable either way, I've popped the trunk after multiple hard runs to chk tank, it's warm to touch (like a luke warm bathtub) but nothing like the actual IC's in the engine compartment, you could easily fry up Denny's Grand-slam on the IC's after 3-4 hard runs...

Maybe 4-6 gallons is optimal I know you have much more exp w/this than I, & appreciate your input

What Heat Exchanger are you running? What size coolant hose are you running? Lastly is it true you're running 29 PSI now?

I'm having fantastic results w/3/4" Goodyear heater hose...The increase in perf on the V12TT is wicked, now anytime I hit throttle boost is available, no more lag of any kind or fishing for gears. Pulls absolutely violent w/Ice. Burnouts are crazy

[prodigymb]

yeah i did a 0-140 pull and the water in the tank afterwards was not hot at all, it was warm but absolutely not hot. i did not try adding ice or dry ice yet.

[prodigymb]

IAT Log 0-140 MPH

[bassn_07]

Originally Posted by prodigymb

IAT Log 0-140 MPH

What were the temps at during the run? Either way 140 is great for such a long pull.

[prodigymb]

Originally Posted by bassn_07

What were the temps at during the run? Either way 140 is great for such a long pull.

about 68-70.

no ice in the tank.

[moparrbust]

I appreciate the offer..........but I already had a 3 gallon tank custom made locally and it is all in and working now.




My IATs on my little 3.2k are kick azz for the first twenty minutes of continuous driving..........but then all of the water gets "heatsoaked" and sits at near the same temps as before the install. Example, today I took the car out and it was 65*ambient and my IATs were around 80* for twenty minutes and then rose and remained at 100* whether I was cruising on the streets or on the highway. The temps to recover VERY fast after a spirited WOT run(with IATs peaking 142*) and settled back to 100* almost instantly. I have to wait a couple weeks before the next track day to try out icing the tank and seeing the track differences.