New Meziere I/C pump install-results

[Exotic-metal55]

I have been running the heavy duty bosch I/C pump with my auxillary H/E system. I calculated that I was not moving coolant fast enough with all the increased coolant capacity over the stock set up. So, out with the bosch and in with the 20gpa Meziere pump. Pump cost about 189.00 dollars , is ultra heavy duty and American made! Bosch and johnson pumps weigh around 2.2 lbs but this bad boy comes in at close to 7lbs! Very well made and the blue anodized 12 IAN fittings are sweet (they are sold seperate). Mr Meziere recommends a vertical mounting position for this pump, so new custom bracket had to be made and I also extended my coolant lines. I heat soaked the engine and coolant system in the garage before going out for some quick test. Ambient was 96 deg. and engine temp was 181 on test drive. IAT`s were 115 as I backed out of the garage (nice and heat soaked) but once on the freeeway at 70mph, they quickly dropped to 106 deg. That is a 7-10 degree drop over my bosch pump and in 9 deg. hotter ambient. Made several 25mph to 80 mph runs and IAT`s never went over 138 deg in 96 degree ambient. Recovery was 20-25 degree instant and then back to within 15 over ambient in about 8 seconds after. The bosch was fast but Meziere is faster. My main goal from this pump, was to have a 7-10 lower IAT`s starting a boost run and lower my IAT average during a boost run by 10 deg .plus. This should net another 10rwhp average , during a boost run. Also to stay away from the timimg pull heat range. Pump is very quiet and is hooked into my stock pump wiring. Below are some pictures of the two pumps and my custom made HDPE bracket.

To remove this ad, register today or login if you already are registered!

[Forrest Gump 9]

That's one healthy looking pump. I plan to use that for my trunk tank and just keep the Johnson unit in the stock location. I'm glad to hear it's an improvement.

[splinter]

Seems like it’s working real well. Clean installation.

Be curious to see its ambient vs. IAT delta during your next 120+ mph off-highway runs.

[bassn_07]

Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55

I have been running the heavy duty bosch I/C pump with my auxillary H/E system. I calculated that I was not moving coolant fast enough with all the increased coolant capacity over the stock set up. So, out with the bosch and in with the 20gpa Meziere pump. Pump cost about 189.00 dollars , is ultra heavy duty and American made!

Bosch and johnson pumps weigh around 2.2 lbs but this bad boy comes in at close to 7lbs! Very well made and the blue anodized 12 IAN fittings are sweet (they are sold seperate). Mr Meziere recommends a vertical mounting position for this pump, so new custom bracket had to be made and I also extended my coolant lines.

I heat soaked the engine and coolant system in the garage before going out for some quick test. Ambient was 96 deg. and engine temp was 181 on test drive. IAT`s were 115 as I backed out of the garage (nice and heat soaked) but once on the freeeway at 70mph, they quickly dropped to 106 deg. That is a 7-10 degree drop over my bosch pump and in 9 deg. hotter ambient.

Made several 25mph to 80 mph runs and IAT`s never went over 138 deg in 96 degree ambient. Recovery was 20-25 degree instant and then back to within 15 over ambient in about 8 seconds after. The bosch was fast but Meziere is faster.

My main goal from this pump, was to have a 7-10 lower IAT`s starting a boost run and lower my IAT average during a boost run by 10 deg .plus. This should net another 10rwhp average , during a boost run. Also to stay away from the timimg pull heat range.


Pump is very quiet and is hooked into my stock pump wiring.

Below are some pictures of the two pumps and my custom made HDPE bracket.

Very nice Brooke!

Have you ever ran the CM30 pump? I run a 2nd CM30 pump for my rear reservoir setup in my trunk and I feel it's a little noisy. If you have tried both could you tell me which one is quieter?

[Exotic-metal55]

Originally Posted by bassn_07

Very nice Brooke!

Have you ever ran the CM30 pump? I run a 2nd CM30 pump for my rear reservoir setup in my trunk and I feel it's a little noisy. If you have tried both could you tell me which one is quieter?

I think I am well known to be a cm30 hater. In a nut shell, the CM30`s head pressure capabilites are very weak. Like a 500rwhp dyno car running 14`s at the track(IMO).. On a positive note, never noticed much noise from either of the ones I ran , while they lasted.. May just need to wrap your pumps in rubber or some noise insulating mat.

Be curious to see its ambient vs. IAT delta during your next 120+ mph off-highway runs.

Going to have to be the track, Texas mile or bad test place on a dyno.. LOL, To many cars on our off hwy roads around H town..

[shardul]

Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55

I think I am well known to be a cm30 hater. In a nut shell, the CM30`s head pressure capabilites are very weak. Like a 500rwhp dyno car running 14`s at the track(IMO).. On a positive note, never noticed much noise from either of the ones I ran , while they lasted.. May just need to wrap your pumps in rubber or some noise insulating mat.

Going to have to be the track, Texas mile or bad test place on a dyno.. LOL, To many cars on our off hwy roads around H town..

Brook
Are you going to participate in the Mile?

[Mrbig]

So u can swap this one in place of the cm pump for better flow !!!

[jikjak]

can u tell us where to buy this meziere pump?

[stevebez]

That's one pretty pump!

Whats the rated power / amp flow? No need to run a seperate relay?

Btw been doing some checking on when the pump is running on the oem feed and it's pretty much all the time - except at cold start so running it from an Acc switch does not seem to make any real difference.

[PTE]

3 years ago when I was installing a Kleemann Blower kit, I was having a hard time mounting up the Co-90 Johnson pump that came with the Kit. The 03 Clk ,their is not much room, in the Right front bumper area & was a really tight fit for the Co-90. Now their is nothing wrong with Kleemann's choose of pumps. I just felt for me & easier serviceability, I would go a different route.
I was turned on the this pump at the P.R.I. convention In Orlando, FL.. Yes it taks a little more work to fit the Meziere pump. It is worth it. I've installed 4 of them since 2003. No failures. I've sold 6 of them outright. No Issues.
Nice Bracket Exotic. Cheers ___PTE___

[Exotic-metal55]

Originally Posted by shardul

Brook
Are you going to participate in the Mile?

Going but not entered. Could not find anyone that has Long Tubes for my car yet. Not running the mile without LT`s.

stevebez
Whats the rated power / amp flow? No need to run a seperate relay?

Btw been doing some checking on when the pump is running on the oem feed and it's pretty much all the time - except at cold start so running it from an Acc switch does not seem to make any real difference.

Here are the specs. http://www.meziere.com/ps-892-860-wp136s.aspx The pump only draws 5-7amps, so I left it on the stock circuit.

If anyone plans to buy this pump, just do a search for the best price online. You can save 40-50 bucks over the MFG price. This company has been making all kinds of high quality race pumps for years. This product is designed to pump coolant and not keep fish happy in an tank.


PTE is correct, that it may take a little work to make this pump fit, depending on your car. It seems the Cm90 also took some work and I never liked how the hoses had to be modified/reduced.

Anyone adding an aftermarket H/E and while the bumper is off; then this would be a great time to add a pump like this. I designed the brackets and installed mine while the car was on jack stands. On my car, I had to move the pump about 10" closer to the passenger fender from the stock location. I had an air pump in the way next to my stock pump but I think the E`s have an oil cooler in the location that I mounted mine.

All the bracket materials are available and easy to work with. I used a cordless drill and jig saw to cut the parts. I had some 3/8" HDPE and cut a strip 3" X 9" long. Pump comes with threaded holes and SS bolts, so driling the HDPE is easy. I then used some 1/8 x 1.5x1.5 alum. angle, purchased from a local building supply store and SS hardware to bolt bracket to HDPE.. I prefer HDPE for jobs like this , as it is a dissimulair material from aluminum, durable and helps absorb vibration. I also wrapped 50% of the pump in rubber, just to make sure vibration was not and issues. That is why you see the white wire ties. There is no noise or vibration from this pump.. It was so quiet that I had to use data-log to make sure it was working..lol

[TopGun32]

very nice.

I think I'm going to this pump.. just the fact recovery is quicker than CM30, and lower IAT's is just an added benefit.

looks like the hose measurements are the same on the M-pump. I will have to see my 03 for space to mount.. there will some slight difference from a CL to E.


Did you use a 90dg elbow hose to route your hose from the pump?

[Exotic-metal55]

My inlet hose (hose from aux H/E ) , I just had to make a longer hose. When you mount your pump, just take time to get inlet and outlet lines at and optimum angle. The outlet hose (factory hose to S/C) angles worked out fine by just using a striaght hose adaptor and making the line longer. No bends or kinks.

Shardul has installed this pump on his E55. He may have a few mounting locations for the E55. All I did, was lay on my back under the car, in 95 degree heat, until an idea and mount spot came to mind. I gave up two times and then it finally came to me.. Still going to add water wetter and see if it will show a data log change. Just for fun.

I do have one 90 deg. elbow on my factory H/E line circling back to my Aux. H/E but plan to replace that with a smooth half circle line. I prefer to stay away from the 90 deg elbows, as they have to create extra flow pressure on the sharp bend.

Originally Posted by TopGun32

very nice.

I think I'm going to this pump.. just the fact recovery is quicker than CM30, and lower IAT's is just an added benefit.

looks like the hose measurements are the same on the M-pump. I will have to see my 03 for space to mount.. there will some slight difference from a CL to E.


Did you use a 90dg elbow hose to route your hose from the pump?

[shardul]

I used an aluminum U bend pipe to connect the oem h/e to the aux one.

[Exotic-metal55]

Going to direct wire my pump to work with Key on position. I know there has been some debate over this. I am now convinced in cooler air that the pump will force IAT`s to stay in warm up mode, especially with a cooler T stat installed. I know RPM, boost and engine temp effect the pump, as I recall. Do not remember those parameters either.

It cooled off some today (73-76 deg.) and I thought I would not heak soak the engine and see what the IAT`s wanted stay driving into the office.. I also wanted to check and see how the ECU controls the pump on cooler days.

Car sits all night in the garage but must have held the heat in. Start up IAT`s were 99 deg. and ambient was 76-80 in garage.

I drive about 3 miles and engine keeps warming up into low 170`s but IAT`s are not moving. This informs me the ECU has not seen high enough rpm or engine temp has not reached a high enough number to kick pump on.. I give the gas a little nudge to 2300 rpm and IAT`s start to drop to 86 deg. right away. I go back to cruising at 65 mph and it seems like the pump shuts off again , as IAT`s creep back up to 91-93 deg. Ambient is still in the 74 deg range but engine temp has only reached 176 deg. in my 10 mile drive.

I know from the day before that in 95 deg. heat, I can run 8-10 over ambient all day long. Now it is 20 deg. cooler, engine temp cooler and ECU seems to force the higher IAT. just what I don`t want.. It is hard wire time..

Ok, just say you told me so Ok,,did my own test and posted the truth..

[prodigymb]

Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55

Going to direct wire my pump to work with Key on position. I know there has been some debate over this. I am now convinced in cooler air that the pump will force IAT`s to stay in warm up mode, especially with a cooler T stat installed. I know RPM, boost and engine temp effect the pump, as I recall. Do not remember those parameters either.

It cooled off some today (73-76 deg.) and I thought I would not heak soak the engine and see what the IAT`s wanted stay driving into the office.. I also wanted to check and see how the ECU controls the pump on cooler days.

Car sits all night in the garage but must have held the heat in. Start up IAT`s were 99 deg. and ambient was 76-80 in garage.

I drive about 3 miles and engine keeps warming up into low 170`s but IAT`s are not moving. This informs me the ECU has not seen high enough rpm or engine temp has not reached a high enough number to kick pump on.. I give the gas a little nudge to 2300 rpm and IAT`s start to drop to 86 deg. right away. I go back to cruising at 65 mph and it seems like the pump shuts off again , as IAT`s creep back up to 91-93 deg. Ambient is still in the 74 deg range but engine temp has only reached 176 deg. in my 10 mile drive.

I know from the day before that in 95 deg. heat, I can run 8-10 over ambient all day long. Now it is 20 deg. cooler, engine temp cooler and ECU seems to force the higher IAT. just what I don`t want.. It is hard wire time..

Ok, just say you told me so Ok,,did my own test and posted the truth..

i noticed similar results in my logs. i am going to rewire my pump as well

[Exotic-metal55]

Wired the Mezire pump to turn on with key. Will do some data log test saturday in cooler weather, then post results..

My CL fuses boxes are different than the E.. I could only find 2 keyed wires and they were both in a 6 wire plug. They were both brown. Pump comes on with key but still runs for 5-10 seconds after key is off. I wonder what wire I spliced into that is on a timer? I hope not the ECU..

[Yacht Master]

Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55

Wired the Mezire pump to turn on with key. Will do some data log test saturday in cooler weather, then post results..

My CL fuses boxes are different than the E.. I could only find 2 keyed wires and they were both in a 6 wire plug. They were both brown. Pump comes on with key but still runs for 5-10 seconds after key is off. I wonder what wire I spliced into that is on a timer? I hope not the ECU..

That sounds like your SAM circuit, I don't think it is suitable for the amperage that the mez pump draws. On the E there are two positions for the cig lighter fuse 14-15 in one position the cig lighter is switched and in the other it is always on. (charge your phone with car off)
So figure out how to make your cig lighter on all the time by moving the fuse, then tap the switched power for your pump, it is at least 15 amp circuit. Don't forget to put an inline fuse in, with the smallest amp value that will hold. A burned up loom is no fun.

The fuse numbers are from memory and I don't have my car with me right now to check.

[Exotic-metal55]

Originally Posted by Yacht Master

That sounds like your SAM circuit, I don't think it is suitable for the amperage that the mez pump draws. On the E there are two positions for the cig lighter fuse 14-15 in one position the cig lighter is switched and in the other it is always on. (charge your phone with car off)
So figure out how to make your cig lighter on all the time by moving the fuse, then tap the switched power for your pump, it is at least 15 amp circuit. Don't forget to put an inline fuse in, with the smallest amp value that will hold. A burned up loom is no fun.

The fuse numbers are from memory and I don't have my car with me right now to check.

Thank you Yachtmaster. I was looking at my STAR manuial and think you may be right. Not 100% sure but it does seem like the right SAM circuit.

It has taken about 3 hours of going over STAR CD fuses boxes (8 choices depending on build month), several trips to the store and finally radio shack came through..Bought a fuse blade and slipped it over a 15amp fuse, that is keyed and controls my wiper pumps.. The SAM circuit seemed to work fine but not worth the chance long term..

Will have to let car cool way off to make a final test.

[Exotic-metal55]

Tested the pump running full time in 75 deg weather (cooler for Texas). Ambient was 75-76 deg. but IAT was still 88 deg at start. That is sitting all night with hood open.

Start car and IATs drop to 82 deg. , as soon as I start driving. Engine temp is only 150 deg range now. Enter the freeway and crusie for 20 miles at 70mph. IATs stay at 82-83 deg. and engine temp maxes out at 169-171 and that is where it stayed.

With stock wiring, the pump would still be off or in warm up mode, with engine temp in this temp range. That is crusing at 70mph. IAT`s were in the 99-102 range and wanting to stay in this range until engine temp reached X point or boost is applied.


Conclusion: Direct wiring will help keep IAT`s 20-25 deg. lower on a cool engine. Lower crusing IAT`s can increase fuel MPG , as well.

Advantage:
a) Possible increased hyw MPG from lower average IAT`s.
b) 20-25 deg. lower initial starting IAT`s at drag strip.
c) Lower temps on dyno run or dyno tuning.

Now , if we just warm the motor up and start driving it hard (higher temp and some boost), then at that point, ECU controlled pump or direct wiring makes no difference. Once I heat soaked the engine at 75 ambient (sit and idle for 15 minutes), then IATs stayed at 15-17 over ambient cruising at 70mph. This is still lower by 10 deg. ambient over an ECU controlled pump at 75ambient. My ECU controlled hwy test of 73 ambient, still wanted to keep IAT`s at 99-102 range.. If I hit the gas and add some boost, then IATs drop to 91-93 range , once pump kicks on.

I still have to check my high speed fan activation. I think it kicks on at a stock temp of 194 deg. This is also not conducive to my cooler T stat mod and keeping IAT`s lower. Our h/E `s love all the air they can get.

Ok, back to my quest for Long Tubes`s..

[320 dreamer]

do a 10* C mod on the fan and it will kick on sooner to compliment the lower tstat